Difference between revisions of "Men's Basics"

Revision as of 17:38, 21 July 2013

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

If you are out of shape, pay a visit to /fit/, then return when you have your ideal body.

This Introduction is a strongly recommended read for both genders.

Tops

T-Shirts

You don't want tees that fit too close to the body, nor tees that are too baggy. Be prepared to try many different brands before you find a cut that fits you the best. Note that there are also other collar types, such as scoop necks.

• Pink, blue and yellow are neutral colours that can almost be worn with anything without much thought, and will provide a solid base to expand upon.

• Solid colour tees that suit your skin -- they generally should not clash or match with your skin tone. Earthy colours such as burgundy, beige and olive are great if you are confident in being able to work them into your wardrobe. Newbies: stick with solid colour tees until you acquire a taste for what designs on a graphic tee work.

• If you prefer a slouchy fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size; you will look sloppy. Buy oversized tees that are cut for that style.

• You don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out. This can be fixed by finding slimmer-fitting tees (often more expensive) or using a tailor.

Shirts (button-downs/ups)

Button-downs and button-ups are simply referred to as shirts by the fashion community at large. Other "shirts" have specific names, such as tees and polos. With shirts, fit is everything, especially in a business environment where it is difficult to stand out. Befriend a tailor.

• Learn the difference between dress shirts and casual shirts. The former has a stiff collar, often spread (to accomodate a tie), and will have tails, as it is meant to be tucked in. Its fabric will also be more formal. A casual shirt will often be made out of different fabric and have a button-down collar and louder patterns. It may or may not be tucked in and will usually have a straight or rounded bottom hem. It is almost always a bad idea to wear a dress shirt casually and vice-versa.

• A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a shirt fit, as it is the most difficult to alter.

• A shirt's cuffs should not extend past the base of your thumb; this signifies that the sleeves are to long. This is an easy alteration.

• A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt cut too boxy, is too large, or the pleats at the top are too generous. Inexpensive shirts found in malls often have this problem because they are cut to accomadate large body types (a catch-all). A tailor can take in the sides.

• Generally, it's a bad idea to buy black dress shirts; it's associated with the waiter look. You can opt for solid colours to play it safe; go for a gingham or another subtle pattern.

Bottoms

Shorts

• Colour: As a beginner, you should avoid patterns and go for a solid colour. Common colours are gray, navy and khaki.

• Length: Make sure that they are the right length - choose shorts that are above your knee, but don't show off all of your legs. A good length is 3/4 or 4/5 of the thigh when standing.

• Fabric: Common acceptable fabrics are chino, linen, or seersucker. Avoid denim shorts; they will often look awful unless your name is Tobias Fünke. If you are in high school, they can be somewhat passable, but you must make sure that they are a dark coloured denim and you roll them so they don't look like cut-offs.

• Leg opening: Unless you really know what you're doing, the opening of your shorts should be somewhat wide, to keep a dirty look.

Pants

• Break refers to the length of your pants. No break, or highwaters, is a more modern trend, but it's not for everyone. In a formal setting, go with a traditional cut unless a modern fit is the image you want to project. With a full break, the hem of the trousers should touch the top of the shoe's sole at your heel. With a half break, the hem of the trousers should be a half-inch or so above the shoe's sole at the heel. With no break, the hem should just touch the shoe on the top by the lacing. While break is personal preference, in a casual setting, you want to avoid long pants, especially if they are baggy. There are a few exceptions, such as is if the pants are very slim (see below).

• Intentional stacking with pants that are slim at the ankle and don't spill over your shoes is perfectly acceptable.

Jeans

Jeans are very casual and should not be worn anywhere other than a casual setting.

• Colour: Once you have your first pair of jeans, you may want to expand your collection. Good starter colours are black and indigo.

• Fit: Buy jeans that feel slightly tight in the waist, because denim will stretch over time. You should not need a belt for your pants to fit properly. For most people, a tapered cut works best ("slim" or "skinny"), meaning that the jean gets narrower toward the ankle. This flatters most body types because it follows the shape of the leg. Keep in mind that the degree of taper can vary, and less tapered jeans (slim straights) work better if you have very muscular legs. Do not hesitate to tailor your jeans to make them fit exactly how you want.

• Raw jeans: Pre-washed/aged jeans are usually frowned upon as they tend to look cheap, dated, and impersonal (exceptions exist at higher price points). Raw denim is unwashed from the factory and is often starched. Fades happen naturally over time. A common starter brand for raw denim is Unbranded.

• Selvedge Jeans: Selvedge is a type of denim that creates a clean edge. People often cuff to show off the hem. These cost more, but are typically of higher quality. Selvedge jeans are usually raw; however, since the introduction of the fad (in 2007) into the mainstream market, more and more mall tier brands are producing distressed/faded selvedge denim at low price points in lighter weights of denim. Examples include: APC, Samurai, Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, Naked & Famous, Rogue Territory, Nudies, 3sixteen, Flat Head, and Iron Heart.

Shoes

/fa/ usually tries to keep some of their shoes as simple as possible design-wise. Try to avoid irritating colorways and overly confusing lines, but then again, it all boils down to taste. Just remember, less is more sometimes.

• Sneakers: Sneakers are the most commonly worn due to their versatility, and (probably) a great replacement for whatever you are currently wearing. They can easily be dressed up or down. A few pairs, in mute colors like white or black, should cover your wardrobe and not break the bank.

• Boots: Boots are often less versatile than sneakers, but are just as vital to a wardrobe. One black and one brown pair is a good start.

• Dress Shoes: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

Outerwear

For the most part, fleece jackets and vests should be avoided as they are overdone, unstylish, and usually just bought because they are a cheaper alternative. Also try to avoid jackets that are over-designed -- excess of zippers, buttons, or straps; epaulets (unless it's army surplus); several pockets which would likely go unused; unnecessary belt straps; and very flashy designs in bright colors. The style of jacket/coat which you may find yourself using is usually heavily influenced by the style you are attempting to use (e.g., you will not see a man interested in menswear wearing an oversized orange parka). As a general rule of thumb, until you know what you're doing, try to keep outerwear darker than the tops layered beneath.

When it comes to brands, don't be shy to only go for what you can afford as outerwear can easily end up being one of the most expensive pieces in an outfit. Even though you'll find several anons who detest the name, The North Face isn't an entirely bad place to start off with outerwear, so long as you don't mind the obnoxious branding and avoid the over-designed jackets. To find the best, though, you may have to search if you aren't satisfied with the brands in Brand Reviews as most people on /fa/ aren't too knowledgeable on the subject of who makes quality outerwear and what an appropriate price is.

Leather jackets are fine just make sure they aren't complex and that it goes well with the weather and your outfit.

Accessories

Hats

• Beanies
• Snapbacks
• Bucket hats
• 5 pannels/Camp caps

Note: avoid fedoras as you will most likely end up looking like a wannabe classy basement-dweller.

Watches

Watches should make a welcome addition to any outfit. They will need to be simple to avoid looking tacky. e.g. Nato strap watch.

Cheap:

• Timex Weekender
• Swatch Irony, Body Soul
• Seiko 5

Mid range:

• Seiko Orange Monster
• Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:

• Hamilton Khaki

Glasses/Sunglasses

What to Wear During What Season

Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).

Spring

• Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
• Bottoms: any
• Footwear: any

Summer

• Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
• Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
• Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

Autumn

• Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
• Bottoms: pants, jeans
• Footwear: sneakers, boots

Winter

• Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
• Bottoms: pants, jeans
• Footwear: sneakers, boots