Difference between revisions of "Men's Basics"

Revision as of 23:39, 10 June 2013

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Here's where to find some wardrobe essentials on the cheap.

If you are out of shape, pay a visit to /fit/ and return when you have your ideal body.

This Introduction is a strongly recommended read for both genders.

Tops

T-Shirts

You don't want tees that fit too close to the body, nor tees that are too baggy. Be prepared to try many different brands before you find a cut that fits you the best. Also, try to figure out whether v-necks or crewnecks flatter you more (you still want to have both, though).

• Grey, black and white are neutral colours that can almost be worn with anything without spending too much thought, and will provide solid base to expand upon.

• Solid colour tees that suit your skin -- they generally shouldn't clash or match with your skin tone. Earthy colours such as navy, burgundy, beige and olive are great if you are confident in being able to work them into your wardrobe (it isn't that difficult!). Newbies: stick with solid colour tees until you acquire a taste for what designs on a graphic tee work.

Shirts (Button-downs/ups)

For reference, button-downs and button-ups are simply referred to as "shirt" by the majority of online stores. Other shirts will often be labelled as such, e.g., tees and polos. Fit is everything here, especially in a business environment where it is difficult to stand out.

• Amount varies greatly - if your job requires them, get more. DON'T BUY black dress or striped dress shirts. Trust us. You can opt for solid colours to play it safe, go for a gingham, or another subtle pattern. Buy flannels sparingly.

• There is a difference between a dress shirt and a casual shirt. For a dress shirt you will be looking for something constructed with clear shoulder seams and a stiff collar. With a casual shirt you will look for something with minimal construction that fits loosely. A dress shirt will usually be a little longer in length with curved tails in the front and back. The length and tails help to keep the shirt seated when tucked in. A casual shirt, which is not meant to be tucked in, will usually have a straight bottom hem.

• A shirt with "puffy" bunches around the waist when tucked in are cut too large around the waistline. This may indicate that the shirt is oversized or the pleats at the top are too generous. Start with the proper size, then look at shirts with smaller pleats or no pleats, and for tapering around the waist. You can also have a tailor add darts in the back to make the body slimmer.

Bottoms

Shorts

• Colour: As a beginner, you should avoid patterns and go for a solid colour. Common colours are gray, navy and khaki.

• Length: Make sure that they are the right length - choose shorts that are above your knee, but don't show off all of your legs. A good length is 3/4 or 4/5 of the thigh when standing.

• Fabric: Common acceptable fabrics are chino, linen, or seersucker. Avoid denim shorts, they will often look awful unless you are named Tobias Fünke. If you are in high school, they can be somewhat passable, but you must make sure that they are a dark coloured denim and you roll them so they don't look like cut-offs.

Pants

• No break, or highwaters, is a more modern trend, but it's not for everyone. In a formal setting, go with a traditional cut unless a modern fit is the image you want to project. With a full break, the hem of the trousers should touch the top of the shoe's sole at your heel. With a half break, the hem of the trousers should be a half-inch or so above the shoe's sole at the heel. With no break, the hem should just touch the shoe on the top by the lacing.

• Intentional stacking with pants that are slim at the ankle and don't spill over your shoes is perfectly acceptable.

Jeans

Jeans are very casual and should not be worn anywhere other than a casual setting.

• Colour: Once you have your first pair of jeans, you may want to expand your collection. Good starter colours are black and indigo, or burgundy for the more adventurous.

• Skinny Jeans: If your waist is 28 and your legs are 32 you do not buy a pair of skinny jeans that are 28x32 because they will look too tight. Remember: just because you can fit into it doesn't mean it fits. However, if tightness is what you're looking for, then it is advisable to try them on first. Some may be too small to even get on while others may be too loose.

• Raw jeans: Pre-washed/aged jeans are usually frowned upon as they tend to look cheap, impersonal and fake. These jeans are unmolested/untreated/unwashed from the factory and are often starched. Examples include: G-star or Levis 501XX.

• Selvedge Jeans: These cost more, but are typically of higher quality. Most selvedge jeans are USUALLY raw; however, since the introduction of the fad (in 2007) into the mainstream market, more and more mall tier brands are producing distressed/faded selvedge denim at low price points in lighter weights of denim. Examples include: APC, Samurai, Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, Naked & Famous, Rogue Territory, Nudies, 3sixteen, Flat Head, and Iron Heart.

Shoes

/fa/ usually tries to keep some of their shoes as simple as possible design-wise. Try to avoid irritating colorways and overly confusing lines, but then again, it all boils down to taste. Just remember, less is more sometimes.

• Sneakers: Sneakers are the most commonly worn due to their versatility, and (probably) a great replacement for whatever you are currently wearing. They can easily be dressed up or down. A few pairs, in mute colors like white or black, should cover your wardrobe and not break the bank.

• Boots: Boots are often less versatile than sneakers, but are just as vital to a wardrobe. One black and one brown pair is a good start.

• Dress Shoes: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

Outerwear

For the most part, fleece jackets and vests should be avoided as they are overdone, unstylish, and usually just bought because they are a cheaper alternative. Also try to avoid jackets that are over-designed -- excess of zippers, buttons, or straps; epaulets (unless it's army surplus); several pockets which would likely go unused; unnecessary belt straps; and very flashy designs in bright colors. The style of jacket/coat which you may find yourself using is usually heavily influenced by the style you are attempting to use (e.g., you will not see a man interested in menswear wearing an oversized orange parka). As a general rule of thumb, until you know what you're doing, try to keep outerwear darker than the tops layered beneath.

When it comes to brands, don't be shy to only go for what you can afford as outerwear can easily end up being one of the most expensive pieces in an outfit. Even though you'll find several anons who detest the name, The North Face isn't an entirely bad place to start off with outerwear, so long as you don't mind the obnoxious branding and avoid the over-designed jackets. To find the best, though, you may have to search if you aren't satisfied with the brands in Brand Reviews as most people on /fa/ aren't too knowledgeable on the subject of who makes quality outerwear and what an appropriate price is.

Accessories

Hats

Street Wear:

• elder statesman

Menswear:

• knit hats: band of outsiders

Artisanal:

• Rick Owens slouch beanie

Watches

Watches should make a welcome addition to any outfit. They will need to be simple to avoid looking tacky. e.g. Nato strap watch.

Cheap:

• Timex Weekender
• Swatch irony, body soul
• seiko 5

Mid range:

• Seiko Orange Monster
• orient Mako

Entry level luxury:

• hamilton khaki

Glasses/Sunglasses

• Ray-Ban
• Oliver Peoples
• Tom Ford
• Persol
• Warby Parker

What to Wear During What Season

Above all else, remember to dress appropriately in relation to the weather around your area (i.e. don't wear shorts if it's cold).

Spring: Boots, Shorts/Pants/Chinos, Shirts, ...

Summer: Low-top sneakers, Shorts/Chinos, Tees, ...

Autumn: Boots, Shorts/Pants, Shirts, ...

Winter: Boots, Jeans, Shirts, Pullovers...