Difference between revisions of "Shoes"

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==Foreword==
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A pair of dress shoes is essential in any man's wardrobe. While they may not seem relevant to your daily wear, eventually you will need a pair--either for work, a wedding, or some other special occasion. If you only own one pair, versatility will be the most important factor. A plain black or brown derby with a rounded toe fits this bill. Thrift stores--often unreliable for much else--consistently carry dress shoes (some of them very good) for those unwilling to shell out for a new pair.  Consider durability and comfort when purchasing, as they might last you for years.
Shoes are the cornerstone of every outfit. Shoes are the most abused pieces in your wardrobe by default. Shoes say everything. You can wear the finest tops and jeans by whomever but it will be worth nothing if you run around in a cheap pair of walmart sandals. Enjoy wear and tear in moderation. There is a difference between signs of age and just looking like shit. More expensive shoes/materials usually age better. Try to avoid shoes from fast-fashion stores.
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==General Types and Styles of Shoes==
 
==='''Oxfords and Derbies'''===
 
[[File:123.jpg|thumb|332px|Distinguishing between an oxford and derby]]
 
The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the oxford and derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp.  Oxfords (also called Balmorals) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp.  Derbies (also called Bucks, Gibsons, or Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the tabs are stitched on top of the vamp (see picture for details).  In general, derbies are considered more casual and oxfords more formal.
 
  
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==General Types and Styles of Dress Shoes==
 +
[[File:1234.jpg|thumb|550px|Distinguishing between an oxford and derby]]
 +
==='''Balmorals and Derbies'''===
  
 +
The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the Balmoral and Derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp.  Balmorals (also informally called Oxfords) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp.  Derbies (also called Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the vamp.  Simply put, the section that holds the eyelets is "on top" on a Derby and "tucked under" on a Balmoral (see picture for details).  In general, Derbies are considered more casual than Balmorals. 
 +
 +
Also note that while Balmorals may be called "Oxfords", both Derbies and Balmorals are ''types'' of oxfords.  An oxford is simply any form of laced shoe.  This is why certain sneakers may be referred to as oxfords, such as Converse's Core Ox and Sperry's Striper CVO (which stands for Circular Vamp Oxford).
  
 
===Other Styles===
 
===Other Styles===
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''Chukka''
 
''Chukka''
 
[[File:363223_mrp_fr_xl.jpg|thumb|252px|An example of oxford shoes with full broguing (aka wingtips).]]
 
  
 
: An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets.  Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.
 
: An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets.  Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.
 +
 +
''Bucks''
 +
 +
:Generally any suede derby, these shoes were originally made of Brazilian or Chinese deer skin and worn as sport shoes.  May be made with suede or nubuck and may feature a brick red sole.  Nubuck will tend to make for a more expensive shoe and has a finer, velvety nap.
  
 
''Monk Strap''
 
''Monk Strap''
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''Brogues''
 
''Brogues''
  
: Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue).  A shoe can simultaneously be an oxford (or derby) and a pair of "brogues".  Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual <span style="font-size:13px;line-height:21px;">shoe, but this is no longer true.  Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.</span>
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: Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue).  A shoe can simultaneously be a balmoral(or derby) and a pair of "brogues".  Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual <span style="font-size:13px;line-height:21px;">shoe, but this is no longer true.  Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.</span>
  
 
: Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing:  the popular <span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:sans-serif;font-size:12.800000190734863px;line-height:19.200000762939453px;">full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.</span>
 
: Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing:  the popular <span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:sans-serif;font-size:12.800000190734863px;line-height:19.200000762939453px;">full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.</span>
 
''Cap Toe''
 
''Cap Toe''
  
[[File:Allenedmonds7_shoes_park-avenue_walnut-cloud_l.jpg|thumb|246px|A shoe with a capped toe.]]
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: A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe.  There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown below.  A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.
 
+
: A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe.  There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown to the right.  A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.
+
  
 
''Moc Toe''
 
''Moc Toe''
: Short for <span style="color:rgb(68,68,68);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small;line-height:12.800000190734863px;">moccasin</span><span style="color:rgb(68,68,68);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small;line-height:12.800000190734863px;"> toe, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe.</span>
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: Short for <span style="color:rgb(68,68,68);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small;line-height:12.800000190734863px;">moccasin</span><span style="color:rgb(68,68,68);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small;line-height:12.800000190734863px;"> toe</span>, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe. This owes to the simple construction technique where a 'plug' (the top section of the vamp on a loafer) is sewn to the vamp.
 +
 
 +
''Apron Toe''
 +
: Similar to a moc toe, an apron toe is stitching along the toe of the shoe. However, an apron toe is (or simulates) an apron stitched onto the vamp. This usually looks less rough than a moc toe, and results in a shape closer to a plain toe.
 +
 
 +
<gallery widths=200px heights=180px>
 +
File:363223_mrp_fr_xl.jpg | An example of oxford shoes with full broguing (aka wingtips).
 +
File:Allenedmonds7_shoes_park-avenue_walnut-cloud_l.jpg | A shoe with a capped toe.
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File:Moc toe.jpg | A moc toe shoe.
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File:Apron toe.jpg | An apron toe boot.
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</gallery>
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 +
==Tying & Lacing==
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Many dress shoes come from the factory laced in such a way that they look nice, but aren't that easy to unlace.
 +
Here's a diagram for lacing (which will work as well for sneakers and other shoes) in addition to a very quick and efficient form of tying shoe laces called the Ian Knot.
 +
 
 +
 
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[[File:LacingMethod.jpg|400px|thumb|center|How to lace a dress shoe.  See more lacing styles [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm here]]]
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[[File:Ianknot.gif|300px|thumb|center|The [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/ianknot.htm Ian Knot].  Here's the method on [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OazKbYP7Sd0 youtube].]]
  
  
 
==Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)==
 
==Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)==
  
==='''Dress Shoes and Boots'''===
+
==='''Shoes and Boots'''===
 
: ''<span style="font-size:14px;">Under $200</span>''
 
: ''<span style="font-size:14px;">Under $200</span>''
 
*Bass
 
*Bass
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*[http://www.sperrytopsider.com/store/SiteController/sperry/subcategory?catId=cat90046DM&subCatId=cat100066DM& Sperry boat shoes]
 
*[http://www.sperrytopsider.com/store/SiteController/sperry/subcategory?catId=cat90046DM&subCatId=cat100066DM& Sperry boat shoes]
 
*Thorogood (boots)
 
*Thorogood (boots)
 +
*William Lennon (boots, UK)
  
  
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*Loake  (UK)
 
*Loake  (UK)
 
*Meermin
 
*Meermin
 +
*New England Outerwear Company (boots and loafers)
 
*Oak Street Bootmakers (boots, boat shoes, and loafers)
 
*Oak Street Bootmakers (boots, boat shoes, and loafers)
 
*Quoddy (boots, boat shoes, loafers)
 
*Quoddy (boots, boat shoes, loafers)
 
*Rancourt
 
*Rancourt
 
*[http://www.redwingheritage.com/ Red Wing Heritage]
 
*[http://www.redwingheritage.com/ Red Wing Heritage]
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*[http://www.sanders-uk.com/shop Sanders] (UK)
 
*[http://www.wolverine.com/US/en/ViewAll Wolverine 1000 Mile]
 
*[http://www.wolverine.com/US/en/ViewAll Wolverine 1000 Mile]
 
*YMC
 
*YMC
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: ''<span style="font-size:14px;">$400 & UP</span>''
 
: ''<span style="font-size:14px;">$400 & UP</span>''
 
*Alden (shoes and boots)
 
*Alden (shoes and boots)
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*Bally
 +
*Buttero (boots)
 
*Church's
 
*Church's
 
*Carmina
 
*Carmina
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: ''$700 & UP''
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:''<span style="font-size:14px;">$700 & UP</span>''
 
*Botega Veneta
 
*Botega Veneta
 
*Corthay
 
*Corthay
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*[http://www.noharm.com/ No Harm]
 
*[http://www.noharm.com/ No Harm]
  
==Sneakers==
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*Novacas
====Canvas Sneakers====
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Converse, Jack Purcell, Pro Keds, Keds, Vans, Sperry, Tretorn, Superga, PF Flyers, Seavees.
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+
 
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====Leather and Suede Sneakers====
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New Balance, Nike, Adidas, Puma, Vans Vault, Common Projects, Seavees, Buttero, Svensson
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Latest revision as of 11:52, 6 May 2018

A pair of dress shoes is essential in any man's wardrobe. While they may not seem relevant to your daily wear, eventually you will need a pair--either for work, a wedding, or some other special occasion. If you only own one pair, versatility will be the most important factor. A plain black or brown derby with a rounded toe fits this bill. Thrift stores--often unreliable for much else--consistently carry dress shoes (some of them very good) for those unwilling to shell out for a new pair. Consider durability and comfort when purchasing, as they might last you for years.


General Types and Styles of Dress Shoes

Distinguishing between an oxford and derby

Balmorals and Derbies

The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the Balmoral and Derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp.  Balmorals (also informally called Oxfords) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp.  Derbies (also called Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the vamp. Simply put, the section that holds the eyelets is "on top" on a Derby and "tucked under" on a Balmoral (see picture for details).  In general, Derbies are considered more casual than Balmorals.

Also note that while Balmorals may be called "Oxfords", both Derbies and Balmorals are types of oxfords. An oxford is simply any form of laced shoe. This is why certain sneakers may be referred to as oxfords, such as Converse's Core Ox and Sperry's Striper CVO (which stands for Circular Vamp Oxford).

Other Styles

Loafers and Boat Shoes

Low cut shoes with no or largely nonfunctional laces and typically a moc toe construction.  Generally considered more casual than a laced shoe.

Chukka

An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets.  Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.

Bucks

Generally any suede derby, these shoes were originally made of Brazilian or Chinese deer skin and worn as sport shoes. May be made with suede or nubuck and may feature a brick red sole. Nubuck will tend to make for a more expensive shoe and has a finer, velvety nap.

Monk Strap

A style of laceless shoe closed with one or two straps and buckles.  A monk shoe with two straps may be refered to as a "double monk."


Embellishments

Brogues

Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue).  A shoe can simultaneously be a balmoral(or derby) and a pair of "brogues".  Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual shoe, but this is no longer true.  Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.
Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing:  the popular full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.

Cap Toe

A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe.  There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown below.  A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.

Moc Toe

Short for moccasin toe, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe. This owes to the simple construction technique where a 'plug' (the top section of the vamp on a loafer) is sewn to the vamp.

Apron Toe

Similar to a moc toe, an apron toe is stitching along the toe of the shoe. However, an apron toe is (or simulates) an apron stitched onto the vamp. This usually looks less rough than a moc toe, and results in a shape closer to a plain toe.

Tying & Lacing

Many dress shoes come from the factory laced in such a way that they look nice, but aren't that easy to unlace. Here's a diagram for lacing (which will work as well for sneakers and other shoes) in addition to a very quick and efficient form of tying shoe laces called the Ian Knot.


How to lace a dress shoe. See more lacing styles here
The Ian Knot. Here's the method on youtube.


Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)

Shoes and Boots

Under $200


$200 & UP


$400 & UP
  • Alden (shoes and boots)
  • Bally
  • Buttero (boots)
  • Church's
  • Carmina
  • Crockett and Jones
  • Danner 
  • Dayton (esp. Service Boots )
  • Harry's of London
  • Mark McNairy
  • Paul Smith
  • Paul Stuart
  • Salvatore Ferragamo
  • Sebago Made In Maine
  • Yuketen


$700 & UP
  • Botega Veneta
  • Corthay
  • Dolce and Gabbana
  • Edward Green
  • Gaziano and Girling
  • George Esquivel
  • Lanvin
  • John Lobb
  • Maison Martin Margiela
  • Prada
  • Saint Crispin
  • Scarpe Di Bianco
  • Thom Browne
  • Visvim

Options for Vegans and Ethical Vegetarians

  • Novacas