/fa/ Sticky - User contributions [en]

Introduction

2014-06-06T15:48:12Z

Niggeragua:

'''Fashion is different for everyone. Everyone partakes in it for different reasons and that's okay.'''
 
== Taste ==

The ﬁrst step towards improving your looks is to ''pay attention''. Not just to yourself or your friends, but to other people as well; start noticing how people look and what clothes do for them. Absorb knowledge and build a visual reference library in your head (or on your computer). Notice the shapes, lines, colors, and proportions of what you see. Don't worry if you don't have the vocabulary to explain what you're looking at or why you like it. The main goal is to pay attention to the details.

Now ''be honest'': firstly, about yourself. Are you tall? Do you have broad hips? Do you have a short torso? Are your shoulders deﬁned? Then make the same honest appraisal of others. Is he stocky? Are her legs really long? Does he have really built arms? Does she have a less curvy frame?

You'll start to notice patterns. Tall people tend to wear a lot of "fashion" items more easily. Some types of sleeves don't ﬂatter people with rounder shoulders. A deﬁned waist tends to make everyone look thinner. Fine woven wool garments tend to make outﬁts more dressy. Now see how some of these patterns can apply to your own body.

Think of this in the abstract—this categorical analysis of dressing avoids any mention of rules, anything about spending money, anything about how "X" ought to ﬁt in such a "Y" way because "Z" is totally hipster/brah/prep/etc. You don't have to read fashion magazines all the time or open up a card at Barneys; that's not the point. The goal isn't to conform to someone else's sense of style, but to develop your own. Whether you had never tried dressing yourself before or if you're some super trend-conscious person, you are ultimately rewarded for all this work with autonomy and self-control over your fashion sense. ''You stop wearing what you think you ought to wear and you begin wearing what you know you should be wearing.''

== Style ==

First of all, remember that /fa/ is a board on ''4chan.'' Follow advice, but don't listen to everything some anonymous person on the internet says. You want to develop your own understanding of fashion over time.

Developing a personal style involves more than putting together outfits, looking good, following brands, and spending money. Keep this in mind.

The number one thing to develop personal style is going to stores or places in real life that have clothes and trying them on. Honestly thats how you learn to dress well, see what works with your body and find your style. You don't learn how to compose cool outfits by browsing tumblr, you learn by experimenting with what works and what doesnt in real life.

By this point, you should have learned to be honest with yourself. So think: are there certain features that you can improve? Could you lose some weight? Do you need to clean up your skin? Does your hair fit your face?

Because fashion is not just about the clothes you wear—it's also about your general image and how you carry yourself. As designer Rick Owens once said, ''"Working out is modern couture. No outfit is going to make you look or feel as good as having a fit body. Buy less clothes and go the gym instead."'' The clothes you wear won't matter if you don't have the body and the confidence to pull it off. So constantly work to improve yourself. Stay healthy, lose weight if you need to, and be aware of what works with your face and body type. Work on your social skills; learn to be confident with whatever you wear.

By improving on your weaknesses, you create a solid foundation on which to build your personal style. It takes time to truly develop your tastes—so while you should be cautious with how much money you spend, there's no reason not to consciously improve your body and your looks. You're born into your genetic lot, but you have the power to make the most of it. Don't settle for mediocrity.

You must also ask yourself, honestly, what you want out of fashion at this point in your life. Whether or not you're aware of it, the way you dress sends a message to others. Do you just want to look presentable? Do you aim to impress girls (or guys)? Were you inspired by celebrities or Tumblr, or do you want to look like a high fashion god? How important is fashion to your lifestyle?

No matter how you approach fashion, always keep an open mind. Don't look down on others for seeing it differently—that isn't a /fa/ mentality. Just present yourself with confidence and accept others for their views.

Now go buy some clothes. Don't be an infograph slave or bite off more than you can chew, but educate yourself on various styles and trends. It's important to be careful with your purchases. Don't buy something just because the internet told you to, and don't buy something just because you like it—buy a piece of clothing because you ''love'' it. This way, you will have more money to spend on individual pieces (even if you're poor), instead of having a closet full of cheap clothing, half of which you hardly wear.

So spend carefully, educate yourself on style, fit, fabrics, and designers, and buy what you love. (Lil B loves you.)

== Basic Posting Guidelines ==

This applies to long time posters as well as newfags.

1. '''Small questions should be posted in the Fuccboi General threads.''' These are /fa/'s version of QTDDTOTs or "Questions that Don't Deserve their Own Thread" threads. There's almost always one up, so use the catalog to find it and use it for minor questions. If someone starts a thread with a basic or stupid question, direct them to the sticky or fuccboi general and suggest they delete their thread.

2. /fa/ is not your barber. Chances are we'll tell you to get a hy or to cut everything off because we really don't care. If you still want advice, post it in a hair general, make a hair general, or post it in the fuccboi general.

3. Keep threads on topic. Avoid posting /soc/ content or other unrelated threads on /fa/. This includes snapchat threads, tinder/okaycupid threads, etc. Likewise, asking if something is /fa/ does not make the post board-related (e.g. "Are Tacos /fa/?" "Is Batman /fa/?")

4. Quality of posts: detailed and constructive criticism in WAYWT threads is always preferable to buzzwords or simple insults. Likewise, one word ratings contribute almost no value to WAYWT threads. Feel free to be critical, but put some thought into it.

5. Persistent harassment of posters should be reported as off topic. Don't start threads to single out and insult individual posters. The posting of personal information or doxing should also be reported.

6. Support and post original content. Take pictures of clothes you own, provide measurements, talk about how things fit, post your diy projects, etc. This goes double for WAYWT threads. Go ahead and post a fit. You'll probably be insulted, but that's part of the board culture.

7. But if you post a fit in a WAYWT, '''take a decent photo'''. It doesn't matter if it's full-body or a series of detailed closeups that covers everything, but at least make sure we can see what the hell you're wearing. Low light, fuzzy pictures, and dirty mirrors all suck. Also: try and include your feet in the pic. Shoes are important to an outfit. We don't care about your face.

8. When a girl posts a pic in a waywt thread, don't be such a thirsty cunt. That's one of the reasons we can't have nice things.

9. Don't post if you are underage. Turn off your computer and go outside.

Introduction

2014-06-04T20:31:51Z

Niggeragua: >Posting Guidelines>made less wordy, more neutral in tone

'''Fashion is different for everyone. Everyone partakes in it for different reasons and that's okay.'''
 
== Taste ==

The ﬁrst step towards improving your looks is to ''pay attention''. Not just to yourself or your friends, but to other people as well; start noticing how people look and what clothes do for them. Absorb knowledge and build a visual reference library in your head (or on your computer). Notice the shapes, lines, colors, and proportions of what you see. Don't worry if you don't have the vocabulary to explain what you're looking at or why you like it. The main goal is to pay attention to the details.

Now ''be honest'': firstly, about yourself. Are you tall? Do you have broad hips? Do you have a short torso? Are your shoulders deﬁned? Then make the same honest appraisal of others. Is he stocky? Are her legs really long? Does he have really built arms? Does she have a less curvy frame?

You'll start to notice patterns. Tall people tend to wear a lot of "fashion" items more easily. Some types of sleeves don't ﬂatter people with rounder shoulders. A deﬁned waist tends to make everyone look thinner. Fine woven wool garments tend to make outﬁts more dressy. Now see how some of these patterns can apply to your own body.

Think of this in the abstract—this categorical analysis of dressing avoids any mention of rules, anything about spending money, anything about how "X" ought to ﬁt in such a "Y" way because "Z" is totally hipster/brah/prep/etc. You don't have to read fashion magazines all the time or open up a card at Barneys; that's not the point. The goal isn't to conform to someone else's sense of style, but to develop your own. Whether you had never tried dressing yourself before or if you're some super trend-conscious person, you are ultimately rewarded for all this work with autonomy and self-control over your fashion sense. ''You stop wearing what you think you ought to wear and you begin wearing what you know you should be wearing.''

== Style ==

First of all, remember that /fa/ is a board on ''4chan.'' Follow advice, but don't listen to everything some anonymous person on the internet says. You want to develop your own understanding of fashion over time.

Developing a personal style involves more than putting together outfits, looking good, following brands, and spending money. Keep this in mind.

The number one thing to develop personal style is going to stores or places in real life that have clothes and trying them on. Honestly thats how you learn to dress well, see what works with your body and find your style. You don't learn how to compose cool outfits by browsing tumblr, you learn by experimenting with what works and what doesnt in real life.

By this point, you should have learned to be honest with yourself. So think: are there certain features that you can improve? Could you lose some weight? Do you need to clean up your skin? Does your hair fit your face?

Because fashion is not just about the clothes you wear—it's also about your general image and how you carry yourself. As designer Rick Owens once said, ''"Working out is modern couture. No outfit is going to make you look or feel as good as having a fit body. Buy less clothes and go the gym instead."'' The clothes you wear won't matter if you don't have the body and the confidence to pull it off. So constantly work to improve yourself. Stay healthy, lose weight if you need to, and be aware of what works with your face and body type. Work on your social skills; learn to be confident with whatever you wear.

By improving on your weaknesses, you create a solid foundation on which to build your personal style. It takes time to truly develop your tastes—so while you should be cautious with how much money you spend, there's no reason not to consciously improve your body and your looks. You're born into your genetic lot, but you have the power to make the most of it. Don't settle for mediocrity.

You must also ask yourself, honestly, what you want out of fashion at this point in your life. Whether or not you're aware of it, the way you dress sends a message to others. Do you just want to look presentable? Do you aim to impress girls (or guys)? Were you inspired by celebrities or Tumblr, or do you want to look like a high fashion god? How important is fashion to your lifestyle?

No matter how you approach fashion, always keep an open mind. Don't look down on others for seeing it differently—that isn't a /fa/ mentality. Just present yourself with confidence and accept others for their views.

Now go buy some clothes. Don't be an infograph slave or bite off more than you can chew, but educate yourself on various styles and trends. It's important to be careful with your purchases. Don't buy something just because the internet told you to, and don't buy something just because you like it—buy a piece of clothing because you ''love'' it. This way, you will have more money to spend on individual pieces (even if you're poor), instead of having a closet full of cheap clothing, half of which you hardly wear.

So spend carefully, educate yourself on style, fit, fabrics, and designers, and buy what you love. (Lil B loves you.)

== Basic Posting Guidelines ==

This applies to long time posters as well as newfags.

1. '''Small questions should be posted in the fuccboi general threads.''' These are /fa/'s version of QTDDTOTs or "Questions that Don't Deserve their Own Thread" threads. There's almost always one up, so use the catalog to find it and use it for minor questions. If you see someone start a thread with a basic or stupid question, direct them to the sticky or fuccboi general and suggest they delete their thread.

2. /fa/ is not your barber. Chances are we'll tell you to get a hy or to cut everything off because we really don't care. If you still want advice, post it in a hair general, make a hair general, or post it in the fuccboi general.

3. Keep threads on topic. Avoid posting /soc/ content or other unrelated threads on /fa/. This includes snapchat threads, tinder/okaycupid threads, etc. Likewise, asking if something is /fa/ does not make the post board-related (e.g. "Are Tacos /fa/?" "Is Batman /fa/?")

4. Quality of posts: detailed and constructive criticism in WAYWT threads is always preferable to buzzwords or simple insults. Likewise, one word ratings contribute almost no value to WAYWT threads. Feel free to be critical, but put some thought into it.

5. Persistent harassment of posters should be reported as off topic. Don't start threads to single out and insult individual posters.

6. Support and post original content. Take pictures of clothes you own, provide measurements, talk about how things fit, post your diy projects, etc. This goes double for WAYWT threads. Go ahead and post a fit. You'll probably be insulted, but that's part of the board culture.

7. But if you're going to post a fit in a WAYWT, '''take a decent photo'''. It doesn't matter if it's full-body or a series of detailed closeups that covers everything, but at least make sure we can actually see what the hell you're wearing. Low light, fuzzy pictures, and dirty mirrors all suck. Also: try and include your feet in the pic. Shoes are important to an outfit. We don't care about your face.

8. When a girl posts a pic in a waywt thread, try not to be such a thirsty cunt. That's one of the reasons we can't have nice things.

9. Don't post if you are underage. Turn off your computer and go outside.

Men's Basics

2014-04-05T19:23:47Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also, please read the '''[[Introduction]]'''.

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends, which become nappy easily. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a no-heat setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, Urban Outfitters, American Apparel, Alternative Apparel, J Crew, COS

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Splendid Mills, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seam should fit on the "point" of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out too much. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Avoid neon and bright pastel shirts. Their flashiness may catch your eye when shopping, but you will find yourself feeling very tacky when you actually put them to use.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially when worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), Express, J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne, Brioni.

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, however, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

''Over $200''
*Loro Piana, SNS Herning, Howlin by Morrison

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn your cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI, Pyrex Vision

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]
[[File:breaktrousers.jpg|thumb|250px|An example of several breaks.]]
Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants. Don't wear white pants.

'''A Note on Breaks:'''
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs, a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearer's body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is--to an extent--an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim. You don't have to get selvedge or even raw jeans, but you should get something better than a pair of Levi's when you can afford it.

See '''[[Denim 101]]''' for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*'''[[Sneakers]]''': Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*'''[[Boots]]''': Boots are a good option for colder months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*'''[http://tuxbell.com/fa/majortest/index.php?title=Shoes Dress Shoes]''': Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans you should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See '''[[Outerwear]]''' for more information.

== Accessories ==

===Wallets===
[http://www.youtube.com/user/montelli101?feature=watch Steve Montelli] on youtube does nothing but review wallets. He owns A LOT of them. Check out his page for recommendations. The one he uses most often is the [http://www.saddlebackleather.com/pocketidwallet Saddleback ID Wallet].

===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Herschel
*Fjallravens
*MAKR
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall
*Sandqvist
*Killspencer
*Iise Seoul

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

Fedoras can never be worn without you looking like a faggot

===Watches===

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

Inevitably, you will probably be curious about fake watches/replicas. Contrary to presumption, quality replicas can be had. However, there are some important things to remember:
*Do your research first
*Don't expect an exact replica (There will always be "tells", no matter how minute.)
*Buy the dealer, not the price: paying a little more for a more reliable, helpful, or communicative dealer will be worth the trouble saved.
*Join a replica watch forum such as [http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/ replica-watch.info] that has trusted dealers and start there.
*The movements in replica watches are often left unoiled. Oil in a watch movement serves the purpose of reducing friction and wear. If left to run unoiled for a period of years, parts could become damaged and functionality will diminish because of it.
*Buying allegedly "Genuine ETA movements" in replicas is highly discouraged: you probably won't be able to verify the movement's authenticity and few will want to do it for you. Clone movements are capable of [http://forums.watchuseek.com/f72/how-do-seagull-hangzhou-compare-eta-depth-look-216945.html equal levels of accuracy], all other things being equal. Even if you do manage to receive a genuine ETA movement, it may be recycled, as in [http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=3478 this thread].

===Glasses & Sunglasses===

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

===Bracelets===
Why?

If you insist...
https://kieljamespatrick.com/
http://www.miansai.com/shop/Bracelets/

===Gloves===

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Actual winter -- you know, with snow and sub-zero temperatures and shit'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over your sweaters and your sweaters over your shirts and your shirts over your base layers and make sure your base layer is made of merino or a synthetic fibre that will wick sweat away from your body
*Bottoms: pants/jeans over long johns
*Footwear: sneakers, boots, galoshes, preferably waterproof.

Shoes

2014-04-05T18:49:39Z

Niggeragua:

A pair of dress shoes is essential in any man's wardrobe. While they may not seem relevant to your daily wear, eventually you will need a pair--either for work, a wedding, or some other special occasion. If you only own one pair, versatility will be the most important factor. A plain black or brown derby with a rounded toe fits this bill. Thrift stores--often unreliable for much else--consistently carry dress shoes (some of them very good) for those unwilling to shell out for a new pair. Consider durability and comfort when purchasing, as they might last you for years.

==General Types and Styles of Dress Shoes==
[[File:1234.jpg|thumb|550px|Distinguishing between an oxford and derby]]
==='''Balmorals and Derbies'''===

The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the Balmoral and Derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp. Balmorals (also informally called Oxfords) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp. Derbies (also called Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the vamp. Simply put, the section that holds the eyelets is "on top" on a Derby and "tucked under" on a Balmoral (see picture for details). In general, Derbies are considered more casual than Balmorals.

Also note that while Balmorals may be called "Oxfords", both Derbies and Balmorals are ''types'' of oxfords. An oxford is simply any form of laced shoe. This is why certain sneakers may be referred to as oxfords, such as Converse's Core Ox and Sperry's Striper CVO (which stands for Circular Vamp Oxford).

===Other Styles===

''Loafers and Boat Shoes''

: Low cut shoes with no or largely nonfunctional laces and typically a moc toe construction. Generally considered more casual than a laced shoe.

''Chukka''

: An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets. Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.

''Bucks''

:Generally any suede derby, these shoes were originally made of Brazilian or Chinese deer skin and worn as sport shoes. May be made with suede or nubuck and may feature a brick red sole. Nubuck will tend to make for a more expensive shoe and has a finer, velvety nap.

''Monk Strap''

: A style of laceless shoe closed with one or two straps and buckles. A monk shoe with two straps may be refered to as a "double monk."

==='''Embellishments'''===
''Brogues''

: Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue). A shoe can simultaneously be a balmoral(or derby) and a pair of "brogues". Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual shoe, but this is no longer true. Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.

: Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing: the popular full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.
''Cap Toe''

: A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe. There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown below. A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.

''Moc Toe''
: Short for moccasin toe, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe. This owes to the simple construction technique where a 'plug' (the top section of the vamp on a loafer) is sewn to the vamp.

''Apron Toe''
: Similar to a moc toe, an apron toe is stitching along the toe of the shoe. However, an apron toe is (or simulates) an apron stitched onto the vamp. This usually looks less rough than a moc toe, and results in a shape closer to a plain toe.

<gallery widths=200px heights=180px>
File:363223_mrp_fr_xl.jpg | An example of oxford shoes with full broguing (aka wingtips).
File:Allenedmonds7_shoes_park-avenue_walnut-cloud_l.jpg | A shoe with a capped toe.
File:Moc toe.jpg | A moc toe shoe.
File:Apron toe.jpg | An apron toe boot.
</gallery>

==Tying & Lacing==
Many dress shoes come from the factory laced in such a way that they look nice, but aren't that easy to unlace.
Here's a diagram for lacing (which will work as well for sneakers and other shoes) in addition to a very quick and efficient form of tying shoe laces called the Ian Knot.

[[File:LacingMethod.jpg|400px|thumb|center|How to lace a dress shoe. See more lacing styles [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm here]]]

[[File:Ianknot.gif|300px|thumb|center|The [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/ianknot.htm Ian Knot]. Here's the method on [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OazKbYP7Sd0 youtube].]]

==Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)==

==='''Shoes and Boots'''===
: ''Under $200''
*Bass
*[http://www.chippewaboots.com/category/classics Chippewa Classics] (boots)
*Clarks (boots)
*Florsheim
*Johnston & Murphy
*LL Bean (esp. their [http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/49464?page=mens-katahdin-iron-works-engineer-boots&subrnd=0 Katahdin boot])
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/Men-BoatShoes-B Sebago boat shoes]
*[http://www.sperrytopsider.com/store/SiteController/sperry/subcategory?catId=cat90046DM&subCatId=cat100066DM& Sperry boat shoes]
*Thorogood (boots)
*William Lennon (boots, UK)

: ''$200 & UP''
*Allen Edmonds
*[http://www.eastlandshoe.com/category/mens+shoes/mens+made+in+maine+usa.do Eastland Made In Maine]
*[http://www.florsheim.com/shop/styles/shoes/imperial/page0.html Florsheim Imperial ]
*Grenson
*Loake (UK)
*Meermin
*New England Outerwear Company (boots and loafers)
*Oak Street Bootmakers (boots, boat shoes, and loafers)
*Quoddy (boots, boat shoes, loafers)
*Rancourt
*[http://www.redwingheritage.com/ Red Wing Heritage]
*[http://www.sanders-uk.com/shop Sanders] (UK)
*[http://www.wolverine.com/US/en/ViewAll Wolverine 1000 Mile]
*YMC

: ''$400 & UP''
*Alden (shoes and boots)
*Bally
*Buttero (boots)
*Church's
*Carmina
*Crockett and Jones
*[http://stumptown.danner.com/ Danner ]
*Dayton (esp. [http://www.daytonboots.com/product/service-boot/ Service Boots] )
*Harry's of London
*Mark McNairy
*Paul Smith
*Paul Stuart
*Salvatore Ferragamo
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/HandsewninMaine Sebago Made In Maine]
*Yuketen



:''$700 & UP''
*Botega Veneta
*Corthay
*Dolce and Gabbana
*Edward Green
*Gaziano and Girling
*George Esquivel
*Lanvin
*John Lobb
*Maison Martin Margiela
*Prada
*Saint Crispin
*Scarpe Di Bianco
*Thom Browne
*Visvim

==='''Options for Vegans and Ethical Vegetarians'''===

*[http://www.bravegentleman.com/shoes.html Brave Gentleman]

*[http://goodguys.bigcartel.com/good-guys-don-t-wear-leather Good Guys]

*[http://www.noharm.com/ No Harm]

*Novacas

Men's Basics

2014-04-05T18:34:38Z

Niggeragua:

Styles

2013-12-02T08:03:13Z

Niggeragua:

--Any information on a certain style goes here. The history of a style is also welcome.

==A Small Note on Styles==
If you haven't read the [[Introduction]], then do it now. This page is for different styles, not only in fashion, but also in the life you lead. Many people disregard their day-to-day life when attempting a new style, and this is where they fail.
Be concise when looking for your ideal style. Don't be a try-hard, don't be an actor.

'''Please Note''': Categorizing fashion into "styles" like they were animals in a taxonomy, while convenient for the beginner, is actually a terrible view to adopt. Outfits cannot be "categorized" into styles completely because each one is unique, and many deviate from these supposed "styles". Styles are not objective. For more information on developing your personal style, see "Taste" in [[Introduction]].

== Traditional ==
[[File:Koo-nyfw-60.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Thom Browne]], [[Tom Ford]], [[Isaia]], [[Brioni]], [[Ralph Lauren Purple Label]], [[Martin Greenfield]], [[Calvin Klein Collection]] '''

Menswear is a modernized style that draws from conservative or classical male working aesthetic. Masculine silhouettes, formal incorporated into casual attire, and somewhat preppy styles fall here. Fit and fabric serve great importance in menswear outfits, as well as in controlling the quality of the clothing you purchase. Cheaply made, ill fitting menswear is a recipe for disaster, as it is very easy to come off as sloppy or trashy. Keeping this in mind, a crisp tailored button-down, slim-fitting trousers, a pair of casual oxfords, and a relatively casual tie, for example, can be worn to either a job interview or a night out.

In the debates that take place on /fa/ and elsewhere, styles are often given names by their opponents to mock and ridicule its followers. The derogatory term used to describe menswear is "dadcore". As the style's classical aesthetic is associated with the older generations (as in being "clothes for dads") menswear has been mocked as such. However, the nickname has since turned into the term used for failed attempts at menswear which include fedoras, ill fitted suits and generally horrid taste.

Clothing in this type of style highly emphasizes construction, material quality and the difficult pattern-making work.
Such examples include Loro Piana who is known for cashmere, Ermenegildo Zegna for their wool, and bespoke labels.

[http://www.gq.com/ GQ]

[http://www.trashness.com/ Trashness]

==Prep==
[[File:prep1comp.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[J Press]], [[Brooks Brothers]], [[J Crew]], [[Polo Ralph Lauren]], [[Lacoste]]

Similar in some ways to traditional menswear, but with key distinctions, "prep" is a style that evolved on Ivy League campuses in the mid twentieth century and came to exemplify New England's white upper middle class. Given the influence of collegiate and prep school environments had in shaping the style, prep modes of dress are more casual, youthful, and sporting in nature than traditional menswear. Prep clothing often pays homage to upper middle class leisure activities like equestrianism, sailing, yachting, hunting, rowing, lacrosse, tennis, and rugby. In fact, many prep essentials originated as sportswear like the canvas tennis sneaker, the polo, and the waxed hunting jacket. Embroidered pants may feature nautical symbols, ducks, or hounds. Nautical stripes and boat shoes hearken to sailing and the significance of fishing to the region.

As a result of these influences, women's prep styles will often appear androgynous, forgoing skirts and adopting pants, shorts, crew neck sweaters and men's button downs.

Prep Essentials: white trainers (canvas or otherwise), wool crew neck sweaters, striped sweaters, chinos, braided leather belts, boat shoes and loafers, a sportscoat, polos, oxfords (both the shoe and the shirt), madras, tweed, duck boots.

[http://www.unabashedlyprep.com/ Unabashedly Prep]

[http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2010/07/23/fashion/20100725-ivy-slideshow.html?_r=0 Take Ivy]

==Streetwear==
[[File:srtwr1.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Supreme]], [[White Mountaineering]], [[Bape]], [[Undercover]], [[WTAPS]], [[Visvim]], [[Stussy]], [[Norse Projects]], [[RSVP]]'''

Streetwear is a style with roots in Western American surf and skate culture but has grown to take inspiration from everything from rap culture, Japanese street fashion, techwear, and even workwear brands. While it has evolved over the years, there are certain clothing items and designs that characterize the style such as bold all over prints, five panel hats, beanies, athletic sneakers (often in loud colorways), brand display, and outerwear made predominantly of synthetic fabrics.

Despite these defining features, streetwear is considered one of the more flexible and approachable styles given its emphasis on steeze. The two major forums dedicated to streetwear are [http://www.hypebeast.com/?_locale=en Hypebeast] and [http://www.superfuture.com/ superfuture].

[http://imgur.com/a/GqeBK#0/ Examples Gallery]

== Artisanal/Avant-Garde==
[[File:1355649565428.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Rick Owens]], [[Yohji Yamamoto]], [[Julius_7]], [[Ann Demeulemeester]], [[Maison Martin Margiela]], [[Comme Des Garcons]].

Artisanal styles are a generally less accessible and remain a niche aesthetic due to high prices and exclusivity. The style is informally referred to as "goth-ninja" on /fa/ or derisively as "goof ninja." The usual defining features of this style are a monochrome / grayscale color palette, unconventional proportions, textures, construction, unique materials.

It is a subjective term and therefore there are no real boundaries or rules that dictate whether an unconventional "Dark" look is "Avant - Garde" or not. Ideologies and Philosophy are an important part of the aesthetic, and many of the designers make conscious efforts to differentiate themselves from mass produced garments with no meaning, depth, or "Soul".

Many pieces are made with unique techniques, treatment (dying, tanning, distressing), and materials. Often, brands place a strong focus on distinctive or unorthodox construction of pieces, for example rather than using a conventional nylon lining in a blazer, it will be unlined with raw edges on the inside, or the lining will be made of a linen/nylon blended fiber.

A vast majority of "avant garde" brands place a strong priority on being anti-branding, using minimalist logos on the interior of pieces, generally placing priority on the construction, form, and quality of the garment, above the brand that created it.

Many of the people who appreciate this aesthetic share the same appreciation for craftsmanship, modern design, and anti - consumerism.

==Urban Techwear==
[[File:techwear.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Acronym]], [[Arc'teryx Veilance]], [[Y-3]], [[Gyakusou]], [[Isaora]], [[Outlier]]'''

Clothing designed to have specific functional properties incorporating new fabrics and technologies, but worn as everyday clothing.
Many brands that exemplify this style are the result of collaborations between fashion designers and sportswear brands (e.g., Y-3, Gyakusou).

Some of the clothing takes design cues from military garments (starting with Christopher Bailey's reintroduction of the military inspired aesthetic).

Other techwear designs feature clothing with a streamlined, technical look. At some points similar to streetwear, but with a emphasis on human interaction with the elements through technology. Smart fabrics, digital gadgets and the like are coupled with the clothes themselves making many fit for outdoor activities as well.

[http://imgur.com/a/WtpWX/ Examples Gallery]

==Lunarcore==
[[File:Lunarcore.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: '''

There is no definitive marker of 'spacecore'. The style itself is rooted in choosing garments that fit a specific feeling, thus forcing the wearer to mine various designers for unifying threads and in doing so reject the vision offered to them as consumers. The unifying thread is retrofuturism, but could just as well be post apocalyptic cowboys as far as the ethos is concerned.
What we are doing is using pre-existing products to make a non-existent statement. We are turning the product into the means of production. Like sampling records, but with moods and styles.
Space/Lunarcore is about how you use what you have access to in order achieve a look. Color is far more important than in the drapey black stuff /fa/ usually goes for.
You need to think critically, build a narrative around your clothing and color choices. Things become appropriate and inappropriate according to how they are framed within the fit. You need to use pieces as symbols and signifiers, telling a story with your outfit.

==Heroin Chic==
[[File:chic.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche]] (Hedi Era), [[Dior Homme]] (Hedi Era), [[Saint Laurent Paris]] (also Hedi Era)

More of a "look" than a style of dress, heroin chic became popular in the 90's starting with a Calvin Klein runway show featuring Kate Moss and a series of Vincent Gallo photos featuring emaciated, pale, drug-addicted looking models. Heroin prices were dropping and the purity was much better at the time, which helped increase its popularity.

The style was dead in the magazines when, Gisele Bundchen was dubbed the new supermodel in 1999. Nowadays, though, it carries on in fashion with a much lighter tone thanks to our teenagers who insist on dying due to anorexia which, as a result, places Heroin Chic in poor light.

Shoes

2013-11-12T02:33:58Z

Niggeragua:

A pair of dress shoes is essential in any man's wardrobe. While they may not seem relevant to your daily wear, eventually you will need a pair--either for work, a wedding, or some other special occasion. If you only own one pair, versatility will be the most important factor. A plain black or brown derby with a rounded toe fits this bill. Thrift stores--often unreliable for much else--consistently carry dress shoes (some of them very good) for those unwilling to shell out for a new pair. Consider durability and comfort when purchasing, as they might last you for years.

==General Types and Styles of Dress Shoes==
[[File:1234.jpg|thumb|550px|Distinguishing between an oxford and derby]]
==='''Balmorals and Derbies'''===

The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the Balmoral and Derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp. Balmorals (also informally called Oxfords) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp. Derbies (also called Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the vamp. Simply put, the section that holds the eyelets is "on top" on a Derby and "tucked under" on a Balmoral (see picture for details). In general, Derbies are considered more casual than Balmorals.

Also note that while Balmorals may be called "Oxfords", both Derbies and Balmorals are ''types'' of oxfords. An oxford is simply any form of laced shoe. This is why certain sneakers may be referred to as oxfords, such as Converse's Core Ox and Sperry's Striper CVO (which stands for Circular Vamp Oxford).

===Other Styles===

''Loafers and Boat Shoes''

: Low cut shoes with no or largely nonfunctional laces and typically a moc toe construction. Generally considered more casual than a laced shoe.

''Chukka''

: An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets. Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.

''Bucks''

:Generally any suede derby, these shoes were originally made of Brazilian or Chinese deer skin and worn as sport shoes. May be made with suede or nubuck and may feature a brick red sole. Nubuck will tend to make for a more expensive shoe and has a finer, velvety nap.

''Monk Strap''

: A style of laceless shoe closed with one or two straps and buckles. A monk shoe with two straps may be refered to as a "double monk."

==='''Embellishments'''===
''Brogues''

: Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue). A shoe can simultaneously be a balmoral(or derby) and a pair of "brogues". Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual shoe, but this is no longer true. Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.

: Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing: the popular full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.
''Cap Toe''

: A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe. There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown to the right. A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.

''Moc Toe''
: Short for moccasin toe, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe. This owes to the simple construction technique where a 'plug' (the top section of the vamp on a loafer) is sewn to the vamp.

''Apron Toe''
: Similar to a moc toe, an apron toe is stitching along the toe of the shoe. However, an apron toe is (or simulates) an apron stitched onto the vamp. This usually looks less rough than a moc toe, and results in a shape closer to a plain toe.

<gallery widths=200px heights=180px>
File:363223_mrp_fr_xl.jpg | An example of oxford shoes with full broguing (aka wingtips).
File:Allenedmonds7_shoes_park-avenue_walnut-cloud_l.jpg | A shoe with a capped toe.
File:Moc toe.jpg | A moc toe shoe.
File:Apron toe.jpg | An apron toe boot.
</gallery>

==Tying & Lacing==
Many dress shoes come from the factory laced in such a way that they look nice, but aren't as easy to put on as we'd like.
Here's a diagram for lacing (which will work as well for sneakers and other shoes) in addition to a very quick and efficient form of tying shoe laces called the Ian Knot.

[[File:LacingMethod.jpg|400px|thumb|center|How to lace a dress shoe. See more lacing styles [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm here]]]

[[File:Ianknot.gif|300px|thumb|center|The [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/ianknot.htm Ian Knot]. Here's the method on [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OazKbYP7Sd0 youtube].]]

==Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)==

==='''Shoes and Boots'''===
: ''Under $200''
*Bass
*[http://www.chippewaboots.com/category/classics Chippewa Classics] (boots)
*Clarks (boots)
*Florsheim
*Johnston & Murphy
*LL Bean (esp. their [http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/49464?page=mens-katahdin-iron-works-engineer-boots&subrnd=0 Katahdin boot])
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/Men-BoatShoes-B Sebago boat shoes]
*[http://www.sperrytopsider.com/store/SiteController/sperry/subcategory?catId=cat90046DM&subCatId=cat100066DM& Sperry boat shoes]
*Thorogood (boots)
*William Lennon (boots, UK)

: ''$200 & UP''
*Allen Edmonds
*[http://www.eastlandshoe.com/category/mens+shoes/mens+made+in+maine+usa.do Eastland Made In Maine]
*[http://www.florsheim.com/shop/styles/shoes/imperial/page0.html Florsheim Imperial ]
*Grenson
*Loake (UK)
*Meermin
*New England Outerwear Company (boots and loafers)
*Oak Street Bootmakers (boots, boat shoes, and loafers)
*Quoddy (boots, boat shoes, loafers)
*Rancourt
*[http://www.redwingheritage.com/ Red Wing Heritage]
*[http://www.sanders-uk.com/shop Sanders] (UK)
*[http://www.wolverine.com/US/en/ViewAll Wolverine 1000 Mile]
*YMC

: ''$400 & UP''
*Alden (shoes and boots)
*Bally
*Buttero (boots)
*Church's
*Carmina
*Crockett and Jones
*[http://stumptown.danner.com/ Danner ]
*Dayton (esp. [http://www.daytonboots.com/product/service-boot/ Service Boots] )
*Harry's of London
*Mark McNairy
*Paul Smith
*Paul Stuart
*Salvatore Ferragamo
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/HandsewninMaine Sebago Made In Maine]
*Yuketen



:''$700 & UP''
*Botega Veneta
*Corthay
*Dolce and Gabbana
*Edward Green
*Gaziano and Girling
*George Esquivel
*Lanvin
*John Lobb
*Maison Martin Margiela
*Prada
*Saint Crispin
*Scarpe Di Bianco
*Thom Browne
*Visvim

==='''Options for Vegans and Ethical Vegetarians'''===

*[http://www.bravegentleman.com/shoes.html Brave Gentleman]

*[http://goodguys.bigcartel.com/good-guys-don-t-wear-leather Good Guys]

*[http://www.noharm.com/ No Harm]

*Novacas

Denim 101

2013-11-06T04:18:02Z

Niggeragua:

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Inseam on selvedge and nonselvedge jeans from Todd Shelton.]]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Natural fading on a pair of Iron Hearts.]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for high end denim and companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash to hem their jeans, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30"). Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+
*Bluer $98+ check out their Home Try-On option, Made in the USA
*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-11-02T18:58:19Z

Niggeragua:

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Inseam on selvedge and nonselvedge jeans from Todd Shelton.]]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Natural fading on a pair of Iron Hearts.]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for high end denim and companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash to hem their jeans, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30"). Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands (US only)==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+
*Bluer $98+ check out their Home Try-On option, Made in the USA
*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-10-17T17:57:58Z

Niggeragua:

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Inseam on selvedge and nonselvedge jeans from Todd Shelton.]]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Natural fading on a pair of Iron Hearts.]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for high end denim and companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash to hem their jeans, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30"). Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands (US only)==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-10-17T17:55:31Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Inseam on selvedge and nonselvedge jeans from Todd Shelton.]]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Natural fading on a pair of Iron Hearts.]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for high end denim and companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash to hem their jeans, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30"). Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands (US only)==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-10-13T20:43:17Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Inseam on selvedge and nonselvedge jeans from Todd Shelton.]]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Natural fading on a pair of Iron Hearts.]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands (US only)==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

File:Selvedge4.jpg

2013-10-13T20:36:07Z

Niggeragua:

File:Selvedge3.jpg

2013-10-13T20:24:32Z

Niggeragua:

Raw Jeans

2013-10-04T17:59:33Z

Niggeragua:

Raw Jeans, also called raw jawnz are unwashed denim with no factory made pre-distressing.

See [[Denim 101]] for more information on raw denim.

Men's Basics

2013-09-20T18:36:36Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also, please read the '''[[Introduction]]'''.

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends, which become nappy easily. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a no-heat setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, Urban Outfitters, American Apparel, Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seam should fit on the "point" of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out too much. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Avoid neon and bright pastel shirts. Their flashiness may catch your eye when shopping, but you will find yourself feeling very tacky when you actually put them to use.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially when worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), Express, J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn your cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]
[[File:breaktrousers.jpg|thumb|250px|An example of several breaks.]]
Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants. Don't wear white pants.

'''A Note on Breaks:'''
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs, a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearer's body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is--to an extent--an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim. You don't have to get selvedge or even raw jeans, but you should get something better than a pair of Levi's when you can afford it.

See '''[[Denim 101]]''' for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*'''[[Sneakers]]''': Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*'''[[Boots]]''': Boots are a good option for colder months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*'''[http://tuxbell.com/fa/majortest/index.php?title=Shoes Dress Shoes]''': Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans you should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See '''[[Outerwear]]''' for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*MAKR
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

'''NO FEDORAS, NOT EVER'''

===Watches===

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

Inevitably, you will probably be curious about fake watches/replicas. Contrary to presumption, quality replicas can be had. However, it is important to A) do your research first, B) not expect a exact replica (There will always be "tells", no matter how minute.), and C) buy the dealer, not the price: paying a little more for a more reliable,helpful, or communicative dealer will be worth the trouble saved. Join a replica watch forum such as [http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/ replica-watch.info] that has trusted dealers and start there. As a final note, buying allegedly "Genuine ETA movements" in replicas is highly discouraged: you probably won't be able to verify the movement's authenticity and few will want to do it for you. Even if you do manage to receive a genuine ETA movement, it may be recycled, as in [http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=3478 this thread].

===Glasses & Sunglasses===

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

Men's Basics

2013-09-20T16:23:44Z

Niggeragua: /* T-Shirts */

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also, please read the '''[[Introduction]]'''.

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a low setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, Urban Outfitters, American Apparel, Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Avoid neon and bright pastel shirts. Their flashiness may catch your eye when shopping, but you will find yourself feeling very tacky when you actually put them to use.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), Express, J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn your cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]
[[File:breaktrousers.jpg|thumb|250px|An example of several breaks.]]
Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants. Don't wear white pants.

'''A Note on Breaks:'''
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs, a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearer's body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is--to an extent--an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim. You don't have to get selvedge or even raw jeans, but you should get something better than a pair of Levi's when you can afford it.

See '''[[Denim 101]]''' for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*[[Sneakers]]: Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*[[Boots]]: Boots are a good option for warmer months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*Dress [[Shoes]]: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans you should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See [[Outerwear]] for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*MAKR
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

'''NO FEDORAS, NOT EVER'''

===Watches===

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

Inevitably, you will probably be curious about fake watches/replicas. Contrary to presumption, quality replicas can be had. However, it is important to A) do your research first, B) not expect a exact replica (There will always be "tells", no matter how minute.), and C) buy the dealer, not the price: paying a little more for a more reliable,helpful, or communicative dealer will be worth the trouble saved. Join a replica watch forum such as [http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/ replica-watch.info] that has trusted dealers and start there. As a final note, buying allegedly "Genuine ETA movements" in replicas is highly discouraged: you probably won't be able to verify the movement's authenticity and few will want to do it for you. Even if you do manage to receive a genuine ETA movement, it may be recycled, as in [http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=3478 this thread].

===Glasses & Sunglasses===

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

Outerwear

2013-09-20T16:18:10Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction

==Wool Coats and Jackets==

[[File:topcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Single breasted donegal over coat.]]
====Over Coat====

A heavy coat that is worn over a suit or a jacket; generally extends down past the knee. Traditionally made of fabrics as thick as 30 oz or more per yard. Different types include the polo coat, the covert coat, the Ulster, and the Chesterfield. They can seem antiquated, especially if they're too long.

[[File:topcoat1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Club Monaco camel top coat.]]
====Top Coat====

Essentially a lightweight over coat that ends at or above the knee. These are still fairly popular and can be found from a variety of retailers.

[[File:duffle.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gloverall Duffel Coat.]]
====Duffle Coat====

Named after the Belgian clothmaking town of Duffel, its personal use by a British Field Marshal led to its UK nickname, the "Monty coat." Made of a heavy woolen fabric, it features toggle closures made out of wood, horn, or plastic, a large hood, a square shoulder yoke, large front pockets, and traditionally a tartan lining. This jacket trended heavily in the fall/winter season of 2012 and might be popular in 2013 as well.

[[File:peacoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Schott NYC pea coat.]]
====Pea Coat====

Worn by sailors for centuries, the pea coat features a large lapel, a double breasted front, a double row of buttons, vertical slash pockets, and a thick woolen fabric. Very popular a few years ago. /fa/ tricked a lot of people into buying them by claiming they were "timeless."

[[File:letterman1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|]]
====Letterman====
Lettermans, baseball, or varsity jackets are pretty easy to find and have been mildly popular over the past few years. Typically features a bomber style, ending at the waist, with ribbed sleeves, collar and hem, vertical or slanted pockets, a wool body, and leather sometimes raglan sleeves.

==Cotton==

[[File:field jacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Designer Milan Vukmirovic wearing a field jacket.]]
====Field Jackets====

A broad range of jackets with a similar design and aesthetic, these are generically called fatigue, field, mechanic, or utility jackets. Typically made with cotton fabrics and feature four front pockets, a small collar, and occasionally a hood and epaulets. These have maintained their popularity over the years.

[[File:m51m65.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Vintage and new versions of the M-51 and M-65.]]
====Military Field Jackets====

The M51 and M65, introduced in 1951 and 1965 respectively, are specific types of field jackets originally issued by the United States military. The most notable difference between the two is that the hood of the m-65 folds up and zips into the collar.

[[File:Waxedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Barbour X To Ki To Beacon Heritage Sports Jacket.]]
====Waxed Cotton====
More common in the UK, waxed cotton jackets were used by sailors, farmers, hunters, and motorcyclists. Waterproof and breathable, these can come in any variety of styles, but typically feature two or more patch pockets and extend past the waist.

[[File:Trenchcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Burberry trench coat.]]
====Trench====
Don't wear a trench coat. Just don't.

[[File:Mac.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Brooks Brothers Mac.]]
====Mac====
Originally designed as a rubberised raincoat, the mac has become a generic term for a coat in this particular design--similar to a topcoat, but often made with cotton fabrics and often with a smaller collar and/or lapel. The Mackintosh brand is currently owned by a Japanese company.

[[File:chore.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Vintage denim chore coat.]]
====Chore====
A very simple jacket, traditionally worn by laborers and made of denim or canvas, the chore coat features a small collar and 2-4 open patch pockets. Pointer Brand is well known for their chore jackets, and Schott NYC and Apolis make nice wool versions.

[[File:harrington.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Harrington====
Originally designed by Baracuta and dubbed the "G9," this jacket was popularized in the late 1950s in part by Ryan O'Neal, whose character Rodney Harrington inspired the nickname. Waist length, made of cotton, coated or waxed cotton, or synthetic fabrics, a tartan lining, and a unique tab collar. This jacket had a bit of a comeback a few years ago and is versatile enough to fit in mod and skinhead as well as in prep outfits.

[[File:denimjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Levis denim jacket.]]

====Denim====

A jacket made of denim. Layer it under a coat to be certified #menswear.

==Synthetics==
[[File:quiltedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Joules Foxton quilted jacket.]]
====Quilted Jackets====
Originally [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/quilted-jackets-guide-buy-history/ invented by Steve Guylas in 1965], the quilted jacket was used for hunting, equestrianism, and other sports. Typically features a corduroy collar, a single breasted front with snap button closures, and patch pockets. Cheaper models will use nylon or polyester shells, but more expensive ones may use polyamide. Barbour is well known for their quilted jackets, but their models tend to be boxy. Some of the nicer versions come from companies not dedicated to the heritage of the boxy original, like Burberry Prosum or Ralph Lauren.

[[File:puffer.jpg|thumb|350px|left|Bottega Veneta quilted down and the Eddie Bauer Skyliner.]]
====Quilted Down Jacket aka The Puffer Jacket====
The quilted down jacket was introduced in [http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/10/dropping-knowledge-the-puffer-jacket.html 1936 by Eddie Bauer] as a light weight and water resistant alternative to wool jackets that he dubbed the Skyliner. The quilting served a functional purpose: to keep the down in place. Nowadays down jackets can be found everywhere, and Uniqlo is well known for their line of cheap quilted downs. They're extremely versatile and "easy to wear."

[[File:gilet.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Canada Goose Gilet.]]
====Gilet====
A vest. Can be quilted or down filled or otherwise.

[[File:parka.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant Parka.]]
====Parka====
Has maintained its popularity over the years, the parka is a casual jacket with similarities to the field jacket, but is typically longer and more likely to use synthetic fabrics. There are lighter models for fall as well as insulated ones for the winter.

[[File:bomberjacket.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Stevenson MA-1 Spring Tencel Jacket.]]

====Bomber or Flight Jacket====
Originally designed for pilots, the flight jacket went from heavy leather models to light, synthetic shelled models with ribbed collars and hems. Pretty popular in authentic and more modern styles, and a good option for shorter men.

[[File:rainjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Supreme fishtail rain jacket.]]
====Rain Jacket====
Typically styled like a parka, rain jackets are a good alternative to an umbrella. Better versions afford some breathability

[[File:windbreaker.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant nylon hoodie.]]
====Wind Breaker====
A lightweight jacket typically cinched at the sleeves, waist length or longer, with a zippered front. A very basic jacket, it's nice to keep a packable wind and water resistant jacket on hand in case of bad weather.

File:Bomberjacket.jpg

2013-09-18T17:55:03Z

Niggeragua:

Denim 101

2013-09-16T17:57:49Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made with, whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans (see pic on right). Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are they important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Selvage denim (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce a fabric which is narrower than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

The renewed popularity or raw, selvege denim stemmed from a heritage movement that sought to make jeans with the tools and with the same level of quality that denim lovers expected for decades before modern manufacturing caused a shift to cheap, foreign made denim. As a result, selvedge and raw became standards for companies trying to create an authentic product that respected the history of the garment.

Companies have tried to cash in on this trend by producing inexpensive versions of raw or selvedge jeans (most notably Converse and Uniqlo) with mixed results. While being raw and selvedge imparts unique properties to a pair of jeans, the heritage movement has always been about quality, something cheap alternatives simply don't supply.

Likewise, a washed, nonselvedge pair of jeans can be just as good and just as well made as any pair of selvedge or raw jeans. "Selvedge" and "raw" are properties that have become correlated with quality denim, but aren't necessary to it.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====
There's a lot of confusion about sizing for raw denim. You might have heard to size up, size down, and/or to buy tts. In general you're going to be sizing down. The exception to this is unsanforized denim (scroll down for more information on sanforized jeans). Unless otherwise specified, jeans will be made with sanforized denim. The question, then, is how much to size down?

The first step in selecting a waist size is to actually (and this will help with buying any other pants) measure your waist. Just get a bit of string and wrap it around your waist where you expect the waist of the jeans to rest. Don't pull it tight, though. Lay out the string and measure the length that corresponds to your waist. Don't be surprised if the measurement is 2-4 inches more than what you normally wear. In the US, a 3" vanity size "buffer" isn't unusual.

It's important to know your actual waist size because the size listed on the tag could be off by anywhere between a half inch to several inches. Most serious jean retailers will list the tag size as well as the actual measured waist of a pair of jeans. Take, for example, these [http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82&products_id=437 3sixteens]. A 30" waist is actually 31 inches, which is a mild deviation, especially compared to a company like APC, which is known for vanity sizing. Selfedge also notes how long it'll take for the waist to stretch and about how much it will stretch, which is a nice addition.

So, now that you know your waist size, you can narrow in on the size you want. Some people like to buy true to size--whatever is closest to their actual measurements--while others like to size down (usually between 1-3 sizes) to take into account how much the jeans are liable to stretch over time. How much you size down depends on the particular jean (some brands tend to stretch more than others) and how you'd like the jean to end up fitting (skinny, slim, or otherwise). There's no standard measure so you have to do your own research.

====Sanforization====
Sanforization is a process of shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width before being made into a garment and has no effect on the color or quality of the finished product. When denim is sanforized it's "preshrunk".

Sanforized raw jeans will still shrink in warm water (particularly after being stretched through wear), but far less so than unsanforized denim. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash your jeans they shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures like Flat Head and Iron Heart, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) jeans are unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should generally be soaked before wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans (unlike their sanforized raw counterparts) are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and yet others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Febreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP*
*Uniqlo*
*Levis*
*Cheap Monday*
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew* $96+

(*Generally not raw or selvedge)
====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Talk:Styles

2013-09-13T18:15:06Z

Niggeragua:

Not sure why the "avant garde" section was changed the way it was. The term "goth ninja" has to be in that section. That's what it's known as and referred to as on /fa/. Leaving it out makes the section less informative without any real reason. Also removed "anything goes". Anything can't go. It's not a coherent style if anything goes.

----

''Discuss the involvement of these "styles" on the page here. Should they be on the page, or alternatively, should we add them to [[Trends]]?''

I'm for trends, personally, or 'Upcoming Styles'.

==Lunarcore==
a style created by poet and pushed by timber. Lunarcore incorporates the stylings of retrofuturism into everyday fits, with references to vintage cosmonaut suits and the implied utility of pockets flaps and zippers. Helmut Lang (Hermit Lounge - joke by ph) was the first lunarcore retrofuture avant-garde designer by creating Chinese flight underwear and playing with the implied utility of zippers and nylon cords to make a refrence to the Chinese pilots of WWII. Helmut Lang was influenced by rick owens and yohji yamammoto. The primary colors used in the newly developed lunarcore style are safety orange, metallic silver and off white to give a vintage retrofuture vibe. The typical lunarcore silhouette is baggy (influenced by yohji yamamoto)to imply utility needed by the retrofuture cosmonaut.

==Tumblrcore==
'''Examples of Brands: Most Big Cartel brands, most clothes from Urban Outfitters'''

[[File:Tumblr m899fnAf7U1r9pmtao1 1280.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

Tumblrcore is a strange thing to describe. For the most part, females are generally more tumblrcore. This style incorporates a sort of twee/teen style while attempting as well to give it some sort of unique edge to it. Whether that edge be heavy makeup, overdone/dyed hair, Dr. Martens, studded pieces, loud patterns, and many different accessories usually associated with a separate style. A staple is usually the "Galaxy Leggings" which have seemingly overnight become a trend, thick framed or "hipster" glasses, hair dyed in an unnatural color, semi-gaudy shoes, and even excessive jewelry. When attempting this style it should be known that it is very flexible just like the streetwear style is, so it can be a very easy "beginner style" for those who aren't sure about some of the more radical and money consuming styles such as gothninja.

Men's tumblrcore consists widely of bigcartel stores. Usually on tee shirts or snapbacks, screenprinting is done with loud prints or pieces of artwork, or it may be fully blown edgy phrases in white on black.

http://theratedcompany.bigcartel.com/

http://andclothing.bigcartel.com/

Two examples of popular bigcartel stores, showcasing different styles and loud prints typically seen.

Styles

2013-09-13T18:12:18Z

Niggeragua: See Discussion page

--Any information on a certain style goes here. The history of a style is also welcome.

==A Small Note on Styles==
If you haven't read the [[Introduction]], then do it now. This page is for different styles, not only in fashion, but also in the life you lead. Many people disregard their day-to-day life when attempting a new style, and this is where they fail.
Be concise when looking for your ideal style. Don't be a try-hard, don't be an actor.

'''Please Note''': Categorizing fashion into "styles" like they were animals in a taxonomy, while convenient for the beginner, is actually a terrible view to adopt. Outfits cannot be "categorized" into styles completely because each one is unique, and many deviate from these supposed "styles". Styles are not objective. For more information on developing your personal style, see "Taste" in [[Introduction]].

== Traditional ==
'''Examples of Brands: [[Thom Browne]], [[Tom Ford]], [[Isaia]], [[Brioni]], [[Ralph Lauren Purple Label]], [[Martin Greenfield]], [[Calvin Klein Collection]] '''
[[File:Koo-nyfw-60.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]
Menswear is a modernized style that draws from conservative or classical male working aesthetic. Masculine silhouettes, formal incorporated into casual attire, and somewhat preppy styles fall here. Fit and fabric serve great importance in menswear outfits, as well as in controlling the quality of the clothing you purchase. Cheaply made, ill fitting menswear is a recipe for disaster, as it is very easy to come off as sloppy or trashy. Keeping this in mind, a crisp tailored button-down, slim-fitting trousers, a pair of casual oxfords, and a relatively casual tie, for example, can be worn to either a job interview or a night out.

In the debates that take place on /fa/ and elsewhere, styles are often given names by their opponents to mock and ridicule its followers. The derogatory term used to describe menswear is "dadcore". As the style's classical aesthetic is associated with the older generations (as in being "clothes for dads") menswear has been mocked as such. However, the nickname has since turned into the term used for failed attempts at menswear which include fedoras, ill fitted suits and generally horrid taste.

Clothing in this type of style highly emphasizes construction, material quality and the difficult pattern-making work.
Such examples include Loro Piana who is known for cashmere, Ermenegildo Zegna for their wool, and bespoke labels.

[http://www.gq.com/ GQ]

[http://www.trashness.com/ Trashness]

==Prep==
[[File:prep1comp.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[J Press]], [[Brooks Brothers]], [[J Crew]], [[Polo Ralph Lauren]], [[Lacoste]]

Similar in some ways to traditional menswear, but with key distinctions, "prep" is a style that evolved on Ivy League campuses in the mid twentieth century and came to exemplify New England's white upper middle class. Given the influence of collegiate and prep school environments had in shaping the style, prep modes of dress are more casual, youthful, and sporting in nature than traditional menswear. Prep clothing often pays homage to upper middle class leisure activities like equestrianism, sailing, yachting, hunting, rowing, lacrosse, tennis, and rugby. In fact, many prep essentials originated as sportswear like the canvas tennis sneaker, the polo, and the waxed hunting jacket. Embroidered pants may feature nautical symbols, ducks, or hounds. Nautical stripes and boat shoes hearken to sailing and the significance of fishing to the region.

As a result of these influences, women's prep styles will often appear androgynous, forgoing skirts and adopting pants, shorts, crew neck sweaters and men's button downs.

Prep Essentials: white trainers (canvas or otherwise), wool crew neck sweaters, striped sweaters, chinos, braided leather belts, boat shoes and loafers, a sportscoat, polos, oxfords (both the shoe and the shirt), madras, tweed, duck boots.

[http://www.unabashedlyprep.com/ Unabashedly Prep]

[http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2010/07/23/fashion/20100725-ivy-slideshow.html?_r=0 Take Ivy]

== Streetwear ==

'''Examples of Brands: [[Supreme]], [[White Mountaineering]], [[Bape]], [[Undercover]], [[WTAPS]], [[Visvim]], [[Stussy]], [[Norse Projects]], [[RSVP]]'''

[[File:srtwr1.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

Streetwear is a style with roots in Western American surf and skate culture but has grown to take inspiration from everything from rap culture, Japanese street fashion, techwear, and even workwear brands. While it has evolved over the years, there are certain clothing items and designs that characterize the style such as bold all over prints, five panel hats, beanies, athletic sneakers (often in loud colorways), brand display, and outerwear made predominantly of synthetic fabrics.

Despite these defining features, streetwear is considered one of the more flexible and approachable styles given its emphasis on steeze. The two major forums dedicated to streetwear are [http://www.hypebeast.com/?_locale=en Hypebeast] and [http://www.superfuture.com/ superfuture].

[http://imgur.com/a/GqeBK#0/ Examples Gallery]

== Artisanal/Avant-Garde ==
'''Examples of Brands: [[Rick Owens]], [[Yohji Yamamoto]], [[Julius_7]], [[Ann Demeulemeester]], [[Maison Martin Margiela]], [[Comme Des Garcons]].
[[File:1355649565428.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

Artisanal styles are a generally less accessible and remain a niche aesthetic due to high prices and exclusivity. The style is informally referred to as "goth-ninja" on /fa/ or derisively as "goof ninja." The usual defining features of this style are a monochrome / grayscale color palette, unconventional proportions, textures, construction, unique materials.

It is a subjective term and therefore there are no real boundaries or rules that dictate whether an unconventional "Dark" look is "Avant - Garde" or not. Ideologies and Philosophy are an important part of the aesthetic, and many of the designers make conscious efforts to differentiate themselves from mass produced garments with no meaning, depth, or "Soul".

Many pieces are made with unique techniques, treatment (dying, tanning, distressing), and materials. Often, brands place a strong focus on distinctive or unorthodox construction of pieces, for example rather than using a conventional nylon lining in a blazer, it will be unlined with raw edges on the inside, or the lining will be made of a linen/nylon blended fiber.

A vast majority of "avant garde" brands place a strong priority on being anti-branding, using minimalist logos on the interior of pieces, generally placing priority on the construction, form, and quality of the garment, above the brand that created it.

Many of the people who appreciate this aesthetic share the same appreciation for craftsmanship, modern design, and anti - consumerism.

==Urban Techwear ==

[[File:techwear.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

'''Examples of Brands: [[Acronym]], [[Arc'teryx Veilance]], [[Y-3]], [[Gyakusou]], [[Isaora]], [[Outlier]]'''

Clothing designed to have specific functional properties incorporating new fabrics and technologies, but worn as everyday clothing.
Many brands that exemplify this style are the result of collaborations between fashion designers and sportswear brands (e.g., Y-3, Gyakusou).

Some of the clothing takes design cues from military garments (starting with Christopher Bailey's reintroduction of the military inspired aesthetic).

Other techwear designs feature clothing with a streamlined, technical look. At some points similar to streetwear, but with a emphasis on human interaction with the elements through technology. Smart fabrics, digital gadgets and the like are coupled with the clothes themselves making many fit for outdoor activities as well.

[http://imgur.com/a/WtpWX/ Examples Gallery]

==Heroin Chic==
[[File:chic.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
'''Examples of Brands: [[Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche]] (Hedi Era), [[Dior Homme]] (Hedi Era), [[Saint Laurent Paris]] (also Hedi Era)

More of a "look" than a style of dress, heroin chic became popular in the 90's starting with a Calvin Klein runway show featuring Kate Moss and a series of Vincent Gallo photos featuring emaciated, pale, drug-addicted looking models. Heroin prices were dropping and the purity was much better at the time, which helped increase its popularity.

The style was dead in the magazines when, Gisele Bundchen was dubbed the new supermodel in 1999. Nowadays, though, it carries on in fashion with a much lighter tone thanks to our teenagers who insist on dying due to anorexia which, as a result, places Heroin Chic in poor light.

File:Srtwr1.jpg

2013-09-13T18:08:18Z

Niggeragua: Niggeragua uploaded a new version of "File:Srtwr1.jpg"

User:Niggeragua

2013-09-04T02:21:39Z

Niggeragua:

[[File:beep.jpg|thumb|left|280px|]]

File:Beep.jpg

2013-09-04T02:20:46Z

Niggeragua:

Talk:Shoes

2013-09-04T02:12:38Z

Niggeragua:

Was trying to do something similar with the pictures, but couldn't get the template to work.

----
Excuse me? When did Quoddy become a maker of "dress shoes"? When did Danner start making "dress boots"?

Shoes

2013-09-04T02:06:46Z

Niggeragua:

A pair of dress shoes is essential in any man's wardrobe. While they may not seem relevant to your daily wear, eventually you will need a pair--either for work, a wedding, or some other special occasion. If you only own one pair, versatility will be the most important factor. A plain black or brown derby with a rounded toe fits this bill. Thrift stores--often unreliable for much else--consistently carry dress shoes (some of them very good) for those unwilling to shell out for a new pair. Consider durability and comfort when purchasing, as they might last you for years.

==General Types and Styles of Dress Shoes==
[[File:1234.jpg|thumb|550px|Distinguishing between an oxford and derby]]
==='''Balmorals and Derbies'''===

The two most common styles of men's dress shoes, the Balmoral and Derby are distinguished by their "lacing type," or how the eyelet tabs are stitched in relation to the vamp. Balmorals (also informally called Oxfords) feature a "closed lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp. Derbies (also called Bluchers) feature an "open lacing" style in which the eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the vamp. Simply put, the section that holds the eyelets is "on top" on a Derby and "tucked under" on a Balmoral (see picture for details). In general, Derbies are considered more casual than Balmorals.

Also note that while Balmorals may be called "Oxfords", both Derbies and Balmorals are ''types'' of oxfords. An oxford is simply any form of laced shoe. This is why certain sneakers may be referred to as oxfords, such as Converse's Core Ox and Sperry's Striper CVO (which stands for Circular Vamp Oxford).

===Other Styles===

''Loafers and Boat Shoes''

: Low cut shoes with no or largely nonfunctional laces and typically a moc toe construction. Generally considered more casual than a laced shoe.

''Chukka''

: An ankle length boot with two or three pairs of eyelets. Worn casually, desert boots are a popular style of chukka.

''Bucks''

:Generally any suede derby, these shoes were originally made of Brazilian or Chinese deer skin and worn as sport shoes. May be made with suede or nubuck and may feature a brick red sole. Nubuck will tend to make for a more expensive shoe and has a finer, velvety nap.

''Monk Strap''

: A style of laceless shoe closed with one or two straps and buckles. A monk shoe with two straps may be refered to as a "double monk."

==='''Embellishments'''===
''Brogues''

: Any shoe or boot with broguing--small decorative perforations, often along with serrations along the visible edges (e.g. along the throat line, toe cap, and tongue). A shoe can simultaneously be a balmoral(or derby) and a pair of "brogues". Due to the functional purpose of broguing, brogues were originally considered a casual shoe, but this is no longer true. Brogueing can be found on both casual and formal shoes.

: Additionally, there are different terms for the extent and style of broguing: the popular full brogue (or wingtip), semi-brogue, quarter brogue, as well as the longwing style.
''Cap Toe''

: A shoe with an extra layer of material covering the toe of the shoe. There are different styles of toe caps, but generally when a shoe is refered to as "cap toed" it will be a simple cap like the one shown to the right. A toe cap can be found on any type of shoe from dress shoes, to boots, and even sneakers.

''Moc Toe''
: Short for moccasin toe, a construction wherein visible seams run along the toe box of a shoe. This owes to the simple construction technique where a 'plug' (the top section of the vamp on a loafer) is sewn to the vamp.

''Apron Toe''
: Similar to a moc toe, an apron toe is stitching along the toe of the shoe. However, an apron toe is (or simulates) an apron stitched onto the vamp. This usually looks less rough than a moc toe, and results in a shape closer to a plain toe.

<gallery widths=200px heights=180px>
File:363223_mrp_fr_xl.jpg | An example of oxford shoes with full broguing (aka wingtips).
File:Allenedmonds7_shoes_park-avenue_walnut-cloud_l.jpg | A shoe with a capped toe.
File:Moc toe.jpg | A moc toe shoe.
File:Apron toe.jpg | An apron toe boot.
</gallery>

==Tying & Lacing==
Many dress shoes come from the factory laced in such a way that they look nice, but aren't as easy to put on as we'd like.
Here's a diagram for lacing (which will work as well for sneakers and other shoes) in addition to a very quick and efficient form of tying shoe laces called the Ian Knot.

[[File:LacingMethod.jpg|400px|thumb|center|How to lace a dress shoe. See more lacing styles [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm here]]]

[[File:Ianknot.gif|300px|thumb|center|The [http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/ianknot.htm Ian Knot]. Here's the method on [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OazKbYP7Sd0 youtube].]]

==Leather Shoes and Boots (A List of Recommendations)==

==='''Shoes and Boots'''===
: ''Under $200''
*Bass
*[http://www.chippewaboots.com/category/classics Chippewa Classics] (boots)
*Clarks (boots)
*Florsheim
*Johnston & Murphy
*LL Bean (esp. their [http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/49464?page=mens-katahdin-iron-works-engineer-boots&subrnd=0 Katahdin boot])
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/Men-BoatShoes-B Sebago boat shoes]
*[http://www.sperrytopsider.com/store/SiteController/sperry/subcategory?catId=cat90046DM&subCatId=cat100066DM& Sperry boat shoes]
*Thorogood (boots)
*William Lennon (boots, UK)

: ''$200 & UP''
*Allen Edmonds
*[http://www.eastlandshoe.com/category/mens+shoes/mens+made+in+maine+usa.do Eastland Made In Maine]
*[http://www.florsheim.com/shop/styles/shoes/imperial/page0.html Florsheim Imperial ]
*Grenson
*Loake (UK)
*Meermin
*New England Outerwear Company (boots and loafers)
*Oak Street Bootmakers (boots, boat shoes, and loafers)
*Quoddy (boots, boat shoes, loafers)
*Rancourt
*[http://www.redwingheritage.com/ Red Wing Heritage]
*[http://www.sanders-uk.com/shop Sanders] (UK)
*[http://www.wolverine.com/US/en/ViewAll Wolverine 1000 Mile]
*YMC

: ''$400 & UP''
*Alden (shoes and boots)
*Bally
*Buttero (boots)
*Church's
*Carmina
*Crockett and Jones
*[http://stumptown.danner.com/ Danner ]
*Dayton (esp. [http://www.daytonboots.com/product/service-boot/ Service Boots] )
*Harry's of London
*Mark McNairy
*Paul Smith
*Paul Stuart
*Salvatore Ferragamo
*[http://www.sebago.com/US/en/HandsewninMaine Sebago Made In Maine]
*Yuketen



:''$700 & UP''
*Botega Veneta
*Corthay
*Dolce and Gabbana
*Edward Green
*Gaziano and Girling
*George Esquivel
*Lanvin
*John Lobb
*Maison Martin Margiela
*Prada
*Saint Crispin
*Scarpe Di Bianco
*Thom Browne
*Visvim

==='''Options for Vegans and Ethical Vegetarians'''===

*[http://www.bravegentleman.com/shoes.html Brave Gentleman]

*[http://goodguys.bigcartel.com/good-guys-don-t-wear-leather Good Guys]

*[http://www.noharm.com/ No Harm]

Retailers

2013-09-04T01:58:16Z

Niggeragua: Undo revision 1965 by Sysna (talk)

=Retailers Sorted by Price Range=
'''Stores are categorized based on the relative cost of clothing sold by the store.'''

Please keep them alphabetized.

=== Low End Retailers ===

*[http://www.ae.com/web/index.jsp American Eagle]
:: ''Example Text. The clothing is pretty rubbish, but the employees are sometimes cute.''

*[http://us.asos.com/ Asos] (Online Retailer)

*[http://cottonon.com Cotton On]

*[http://www.forever21.com/ Forever 21]

*[http://www.gap.com Gap]

*[http://www.hm.com/us/ H&M]

*[http://www.jcpenney.com/ JC Penny] (Department Store)

*[http://factory.jcrew.com/ J Crew Factory] (Outlet Store)

*[http://www.nastygal.com/ Nasty Gal] (Women's)

*[http://www.target.com Target] (Discount Department Store)

*[http://www.uniqlo.com/us/ Uniqlo]

*[http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/ Urban Ourfitters]

*[http://canvas.landsend.com/ Land's End Canvas]

*[http://us.levi.com/home/index.jsp Levis]

*[http://shop.mango.com/ Mango]

*[http://us.topman.com/ Topman]

*[http://www.zara.com/ Zara]

=== Mid Range Retailers ===

*[http://www.americanapparel.net/ American Apparel]

*[http://bananarepublic.gap.com/ Banana Republic]

*[http://www.bonobos.com/ Bonobos]

*[http://www.brooksbrothers.com/ Brooks Brothers]

*[http://www.clubmonaco.com/ Club Monaco]

*[http://www.everlane.com/ Everlane]

*[http://www.jcrew.com/ J Crew ]

*[http://www.jpressonline.com/ J Press/York Street]

*[http://www.lacoste.com/ Lacoste]

*[http://www.macys.com/ Macy's ] (Department Store)

*[http://www.massimodutti.com/ Massimo Dutti]

*[http://www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=1766205 Polo Ralph Lauren] and [http://www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=15755566&ab=global_men_rlx RLX]

*[http://www.supremenewyork.com/ Supreme]

*[http://www.benetton.com/ United Colors of Benetton]

*[http://www.vineyardvines.com/ Vineyard Vines]

=== High Mid Range Retailers ===

*[http://shop.acnestudios.com/ ACNE]

*[http://www.shopacrimony.com/ Acrimony]

*[http://www.us.allsaints.com/ All Saints]

*[http://usonline.apc.fr/ APC]

*[http://www.april77-shop.com/ April 77]

*[http://us.bape.com/ Bape]

*[http://www.brooksbrothers.com/black-fleece Brooks Brothers Black Fleece]

*[http://www.thecorner.com/ The Corner] (Online Retailer)

*[http://epauletnewyork.com/ Epaulet]

*[http://us.gant.com/ Gant]

*[http://www.gitman.com/ Gitman Bros ] & [http://gitmanvintage.com/ Gitman Vintage]

*[http://www.hickorees.com/ Hickoree's]

*[http://www.levisvintageclothing.com/ Levis Vintage Clothing]

*[http://www.levismadeandcrafted.com/ Levis Made & Crafted]

*[http://needsupply.com/ Need Supply Co.] (Online Retailer)

*[http://shop.nordstrom.com/ Nordstrom ] (Department Store)

*[http://www.openingceremony.us/ Opening Ceremony]

*[http://www.ourlegacy.se/ Our Legacy]

*[http://www.rag-bone.com/shop.html Rag & Bone]

*[http://www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=11757743&ab=global_men_rrl RRL]

*[http://www.revolveclothing.com/ RevolveClothing] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.shopbop.com/ ShopBop ] (Women's Online Retailer)

*[http://www.sunspel.com/ Sunspel]

*[http://shop.tres-bien.com/ Très Bien Shop] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.unionmadegoods.com/ Unionmade] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.wingsandhorns.com/ Wings+Horns]

*[http://www.yoox.com/ YOOX] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.youmustcreate.com/ YMC]

=== High End and Designer ===

*[http://www.acrnm.com/ Acronym]

*[http://ateliernewyork.com/clothing/ Atelier]

*[http://www.barneys.com/ Barneys ] (Department Store)

*[http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com/ Bergdorf Goodman ] (Department Store)

*[http://www.blackbirdballard.com/ Blackbird Ballard]

*[http://www.burberry.com/ Burberry ]

*[http://www.farfetch.com/pag112.aspx Farfetch] (Online Retailer)

*[http://shop.havenshop.ca/ Haven] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.isaora.com/ Isaora]

*Junya Watanabe

*[http://www.lanvin.com/ Lanvin]

*[http://leffot.com/ Leffot] (Shoes)

*[http://www.loropiana.com/ Loro Piana]

*[http://www.luisaviaroma.com Luisaviaroma] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.maisonmartinmargiela.com/ Maison Martin Margella]

*[http://www.mrporter.com/ Mr Porter] (Men's Online Retailer)

*[http://www.neimanmarcus.com/ Neiman Marcus ] (Department Store)

*[http://www.net-a-porter.com/ Net-a-Porter] (Women's Online Retailer)

*[http://www.oki-ni.com/ Oki-ni] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/us-en/shop/ Paul Smith]

*[http://www.rafsimons.com/ Raf Simons]

*[http://www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=2885938&ab=global_men_purplelabel&cp=2885938 Ralph Lauren Purple] and [http://www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=2871712&ab=global_men_blacklabel&cp=2871712 Black Label]

*[http://www.rickowens.eu/ Rick Owens]

*[http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/ Saks Fifth Avenue] (Department Store)

*[http://www.slowear.com/ Slowear ] (and it's subsidiaries Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, and Montedoro)

*[http://www.ssense.com/ SSense] (Online Retailer)

*[http://www.undercoverism.com/ Undercover]

*[http://shop.visvim.tv/jp/en/f1/index.php Visvim]
*[http://www.wtaps.com/ WTaps]

*[http://www.ysl.com/ Yves Saint Laurent]

===Discount Stores and Flash Sale Sites===

====Discount Stores====
*[http://www.marshallsonline.com/ Marshalls]

*[http://www.tjmaxx.com/ TJ Maxx]

*[http://www.rossstores.com/ Ross]

*[http://www.winners.ca/ Winners] (Canada)

*[http://shop.nordstrom.com/c/nordstrom-rack Nordstrom Rack]

====Flash Sale Sites====
: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deal_of_the_day Flash sale sites] offer sales for brief periods of time (usually 24-36 hours) and often require membership to view their inventory.

[http://www.belleandclive.com/ Belle & Clive], [http://www.editorscloset.com Editor’s Closet], [http://www.frankandoak.com/ Frank & Oak], [http://www.gilt.com/ Gilt], [http://www.hautelook.com HauteLook], [http://www.ideeli.com/ Ideeli], [http://www.jackthreads.com/ Jackthreads], [http://www.myhabit.com MyHabit], [http://www.plndr.com/ Plndr], and [http://www.ruelala.com/ Rue La La].

=Retailers Sorted by Country=

==== UK and European Retailers ====

*[http://www.albamclothing.com/ Albam] Online, London

*[http://www.bensherman.com/ Ben Sherman] Online, lots probably

*[http://www.thebureaubelfast.com/ The Bureau] Online, Belfast

*[http://www.cosstores.com/ Cos] Online, London

*[http://www.dogfishmen.co.uk/ Dogfish] Online, Cambridge, Norwich (also incorporates Sevenwolves in Cambridge and Norwich)

*[http://www.endclothing.co.uk/ End Clothing] Online, Newcastle

*[http://www.farfetch.com Farfetch] Online, sourced from boutiques around the globe.

*[http://www.flatspot.com/ Flatspot] Online, Totnes

*[http://fusshop.co.uk/ FUSshop] Online

*[http://goodhoodstore.com/ Goodhood Store] Online, London

*[http://thegreat-divide.com/ The Great Divide] Online

*[http://www.hackett.com Hackett]

*[http://www.kafka.co.uk/ Kafka] Online, Aberdeen

*[http://www.themandonstore.com Mandon]

*[http://www.massimodutti.com Massimo Dutti]

*[http://www.oipolloi.com/ Oi Polloi] Online, Manchester

*[http://www.pullandbear.com/ Pull & Bear]

*[http://www.riverisland.com River Island]

*[http://www.selfridges.com/ Selfridges]

*[http://www.stuartslondon.com Stuarts London]

*[http://www.reiss.com/ Reiss]

*[http://www.uniqlo.com/uk/ Uniqlo]

*[http://www.yoox.com yoox]

*[http://www.tkmaxx.com/ tkmaxx] Online, UK

==== Canadian Retailers ====

*[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate+Yoko] A good place to buy high-end raws and various other clothes. Montreal, Canada

*[http://www.gravitypope.com/ gravitypope]

*[http://shopsydneys.com/ Sydney's] Toronto, Canada

*[http://www.jonathanandolivia.com/ Jonathan+Olivia]

*[http://tntfashion.ca/ TNT]

*[http://www.reborn.ws/ Reborn] All orders made by email

*[http://www.rodengray.com/ Roden Gray] Vancouver, Canada

*[http://www.nomadshop.net/ N O M A D] Toronto, Canada

*[http://othshop.ca/ Off The Hook] Montreal, Canada

==== Australian Retailers ====

*[http://www.vanishingelephant.com/ Vanishing Elephant]

=Denim Retailers=

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Retailers

2013-09-04T01:57:32Z

Niggeragua: Undo revision 3149 by 24.90.123.226 (talk)

User:Niggeragua

2013-09-04T01:39:35Z

Niggeragua: Blanked the page

Denim 101

2013-08-25T17:45:57Z

Niggeragua: /* Resources and Retailers: */

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made of whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans. Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are the terms so important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.

Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 32”) than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

None of this is to say that non selvedge fabric makes for "bad" jeans, but selvedge does make for a more authentic jean with a more visually appealing seam and more interesting fabric to the discerning viewer. Whether you're buying selvedge or non selvedge jeans, quality is often a reflection of cost, though. Expect to spend over $100 at retail for a decent pair whether or not you decide to buy a selvedge pair. Also note that the price difference between a selvedge and nonselvedge jean at this level might be completely negligible depending on the brand.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====

====Sanforization====
Sanforizing the denim is the process of evening out the shrinkage and has no effect on the color or quality. When the denim is sanforized, it is already shrunk for you. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash the denim it shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans like Flat Head and Iron Heart, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) is unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should be soaked BEFORE wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans--unlike their sanforized raw counterparts--are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause really unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Fabreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but trust me, it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP
*Uniqlo
*Levis
*Cheap Monday
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew $96+

====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ Rawr Denim 101]

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Outerwear

2013-08-21T14:13:00Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction

==Wool Coats and Jackets==

[[File:topcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Single breasted donegal over coat.]]
====Over Coat====

A heavy coat that is worn over a suit or a jacket; generally extends down past the knee. Traditionally made of fabrics as thick as 30 oz or more per yard. There are a variety of overcoats like the polo coat, the covert coat, the Ulster, and the Chesterfield. They can seem antiquated, especially if they're too long.

[[File:topcoat1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Club Monaco camel top coat.]]
====Top Coat====

Essentially a lightweight over coat that ends at or above the knee. These are still fairly popular and can be found from a variety of retailers.

[[File:duffle.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gloverall Duffel Coat.]]
====Duffle Coat====

Named after the Belgian clothmaking town of Duffel, this coat was actually has roots in a Polish design before being modified by a British outfitter and eventually commissioned for use by the British military. Its personal use by the British Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery even led to the coat being referred to as a "Monty coat" in the UK. Made of a heavy woolen fabric, it features toggle closures made out of wood, horn, or plastic, a large hood, a square shoulder yoke, large front pockets, and traditionally a tartan lining. This jacket trended heavily in the fall/winter season of 2012 and might be popular this upcoming winter as well.

[[File:peacoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Schott NYC pea coat.]]
====Pea Coat====

Worn by sailors for centuries, the pea coat features a large lapel, a double breasted front, a double row of buttons, and a thick wool fabric. Very popular a few years ago. /fa/ tricked a lot of people into buying them by claiming they were "timeless."

[[File:letterman1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|]]
====Letterman====
x

==Cotton==

[[File:field jacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Designer Milan Vukmirovic wearing a field jacket.]]
====Field Jackets====

A broad range of jackets with a similar design and aesthetic, these are generically called fatigue, field, mechanic, or utility jackets. Typically made with cotton fabrics and feature four front pockets, a small collar, and occasionally a hood and epaulets.

[[File:m51m65.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Vintage and new versions of the M-51 and M-65.]]
====Military Field Jackets====

The M51 and M65, introduced in 1951 and 1965 respectively, are specific types of field jackets originally issued by the United States military. The most notable difference between the two is that the hood of the m-65 folds up and zips into the collar.

[[File:Waxedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Barbour X To Ki To Beacon Heritage Sports Jacket.]]
====Waxed Cotton====
x

[[File:Trenchcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Burberry trench coat.]]
====Trench====
Don't wear a trench coat. Just don't.

[[File:Mac.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Brooks Brothers Mac.]]
====Mac====
x

[[File:chore.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Vintage denim chore coat.]]
====Chore====
A very simple jacket, traditionally worn by laborers and made of denim or canvas, the chore coat features a small collar and 2-4 open patch pockets. Pointer Brand is well known for their chore jackets, and Schott NYC makes a particularly handsome wool version.

[[File:harrington.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Harrington====
Originally designed by Baracuta and dubbed the "G9," this jacket was popularized in the late 1950s by Elvis and by Ryan O'Neal, whose character Rodney Harrington inspired the nickname. Waist length, made of cotton, coated or waxed cotton, or synthetic fabrics, a tartan lining, and a unique tab collar. This jacket had a bit of a comeback a few years ago and is versatile enough to fit in mod and skinhead as well as more preppy outfits. The tan versions, however, tend to seem old man core.

[[File:denimjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Levis denim jacket.]]
====Denim====
x

==Synthetics==
[[File:quiltedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Joules Foxton quilted jacket.]]
====Quilted Jackets====
Originally [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/quilted-jackets-guide-buy-history/ invented by Steve Guylas in 1965], an American who retired from the US Air Force and moved to England, the quilted jacket was used for hunting, equestrianism, and other sports. Typically features a corduroy collar, a single breasted front with snap button closures, and patch pockets. Cheaper models will use nylon or polyester shells, but more expensive ones may use polyamide. Barbour is well known for their quilted jackets, but their models tend to be poorly fitted. Some of the nicest version come from companies not dedicated to the heritage of the boxy original, like Burberry Prosum or Ralph Lauren.

[[File:puffer.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Bottega Veneta quilted down and the Eddie Bauer Skyliner.]]
====Quilted Down Jacket aka The Puffer Jacket====
The quilted down jacket was introduced in [http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/10/dropping-knowledge-the-puffer-jacket.html 1936 by Eddie Bauer] as a light weight and water resistant alternative to wool jackets that he dubbed the Skyliner. The quilting served a functional purpose: to keep the down in place. Nowadays down jackets can be found everywhere, and Uniqlo is well known for their line of quilted downs. They're extremely versatile and "easy to wear."

[[File:gilet.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Canada Goose Gilet.]]
====Gilet====
x

[[File:parka.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant Parka.]]
====Parka====
x

[[File:bomberjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Bomber or Flight Jacket====
x

[[File:rainjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Supreme fishtail rain jacket.]]
====Rain Jacket====
Typically styled like a parka, rain jackets are a good alternative to an umbrella. Better versions afford some breathability

[[File:windbreaker.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant nylon hoodie.]]
====Wind Breaker====
A lightweight jacket typically cinched at the sleeves, waist length or longer, with a zippered front. A very basic jacket, I like to keep a packable wind and water resistant jacket on hand in case of bad weather.

Men's Basics

2013-08-20T22:02:44Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also, please read the '''[[Introduction]]'''.

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee featuring slightly dropped shoulders.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a low setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, American Apparel, Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn your cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]
[[File:breaktrousers.jpg|thumb|250px|An example of several breaks.]]
Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants.

'''A Note on Breaks:'''
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs, a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearer's body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is--to an extent--an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim. You don't have to get selvedge or even raw jeans, but you should get something better than a pair of Levi's when you can afford it.

See '''[[Denim 101]]''' for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*[[Sneakers]]: Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*[[Boots]]: Boots are a good option for warmer months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*Dress [[Shoes]]: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans to should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See [[Outerwear]] for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*MAKR
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

Don't wear fedoras or other brimmed hats unless it's purely utilitarian (i.e. to keep your neck from burning) or you live in an area where a particular style (such as a stetson) is common. In other words, if you are actually at a rodeo, cowboy.

'''Watches'''

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

'''Glasses & Sunglasses'''

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

Men's Basics

2013-08-18T19:42:46Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also, please read the '''[[Introduction]]'''.

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee featuring slightly dropped shoulders.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a low setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, American Apparel, Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn your cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]
[[File:breaktrousers.jpg|thumb|250px|An example of several breaks.]]
Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants.

'''A Note on Breaks:'''
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs, a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearer's body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is--to an extent--an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim. You don't have to get selvedge or even raw jeans, but you should get something better than a pair of Levi's when you can afford it.

See '''[[Denim 101]]''' for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*[[Sneakers]]: Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*[[Boots]]: Boots are a good option for warmer months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*Dress [[Shoes]]: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans to should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See [[Outerwear]] for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

Don't wear fedoras or other brimmed hats unless it's purely utilitarian (i.e. to keep your neck from burning) or you live in an area where a particular style (such as a stetson) is common. In other words, if you are actually at a rodeo, cowboy.

'''Watches'''

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

'''Glasses & Sunglasses'''

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

File:Breaktrousers.jpg

2013-08-18T15:49:47Z

Niggeragua:

Denim 101

2013-08-18T15:34:24Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made of whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans. Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are the terms so important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.

Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 32”) than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

None of this is to say that non selvedge fabric makes for "bad" jeans, but selvedge does make for a more authentic jean with a more visually appealing seam and more interesting fabric to the discerning viewer. Whether you're buying selvedge or non selvedge jeans, quality is often a reflection of cost, though. Expect to spend over $100 at retail for a decent pair whether or not you decide to buy a selvedge pair. Also note that the price difference between a selvedge and nonselvedge jean at this level might be completely negligible depending on the brand.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sizing====

====Sanforization====
Sanforizing the denim is the process of evening out the shrinkage and has no effect on the color or quality. When the denim is sanforized, it is already shrunk for you. '''Most denim nowadays is sanforized''' so when you finally wash the denim it shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans like Flat Head and Iron Heart, and Levi's 501 STF (Shrink-to-Fit™) is unsanforized as well. '''Unsanforized denim should be soaked BEFORE wearing''', that way you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them, and so you don't look like an idiot wearing oversized jeans.

Unsanforized jeans--unlike their sanforized raw counterparts--are often purchased true to size in the waist or larger to account for this shrinkage. It's a personal choice, but I've found tts to work fine for both sanforized and unsanforized jeans.

The [http://thighsbiggerthanyourhead.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-shrink-to-fit-stf-your-levis.html basic method] for shrinking unsanforized jeans is to submerge in hot water inside out for an hour or two and then hang dry. Some methods say to wear the jeans in the tub (not inside out in this case) to allow them to mold to your body, and others say to wear the jeans as they dry to encourage them to conform to your body.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue where it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, wear something else if there's rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow the stain to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause really unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Fabreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but trust me, it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP
*Uniqlo
*Levis
*Cheap Monday
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew $96+

====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Common Style Mistakes

2013-08-10T19:37:56Z

Niggeragua:

This page is dedicated to the dissemination of information concerning articles of clothing that are hard and/or impossible to wear.

=== Yesstyle/Fabrixquare/TheLeesShop/Doublju ===
[[File:yeststylething.jpg|thumb|250px|Victims of Doublju]]
The clothes from Yesstyle, The Lees Shop, Doublju, and [[Fabrixquare]] are garbage. The sleek, flattering clothes presented in pictures online is a product of careful manipulation. The clothing is held in place and fitted onto mannequins with pins, taken in flattering lighting to accentuate the fit, but hide the poor materials and cheap construction. Additionally, clothing from Yesstyle and some of these other Asian sites are made for smaller, Asian statures. On an average american, the clothing will be too short, but the most egregious fault is the absolutely awful fabric selection and the excessive detailing like buttons and epaulets where they're completely unneeded.

'''General rule of thumb: do not buy clothes pictured on a black mannequin, even if you see one on a huge retailer like eBay or Amazon'''

=== The Fedora ===
You don't look classy.
You don't look cool.
Just don't wear it.
It doesn't matter if it's of high quality.
It doesn't matter if you saw some dude from the 1950s pull it off.
Don't wear it.

=== Dadcore/Overdressing ===

'''Dadcore'''

Many beginners to the fashion game tend to go straight for the GQ #Menswear look, as they see it as classy and masculine. This itself is not a bad idea, but it's very easy to get sucked into buying mall-tier clothes that look "nice" in the store, but terrible on you. The term "dadcore" refers to a bastardisation of menswear, often consisting of poorly fitted suits, oxford shirts, blazers, peacoats, awkward ties and tie bars, ugly desert boots, square shoes, and sometimes even the infamous fedora. If you rush in and fill your wardrobe with mall-tier "dressy" clothes, without tailoring you will look bad, and probably get posted in /fa/ cringe threads. When starting out, buy decent basics and work your way up, dress clothes are not the foundation of a wardrobe. Once you have the basics down, you can look into styles you prefer, find a decent tailor, and start buying nicer clothing. By this point you should know what to look for in an oxford, blazer, suit, and will have a much better wardrobe in the long run.

'''Overdressing'''

It's worth noting that dadcore often is most obvious when you're young. Nothing looks more hilarious than an awkward 18 year old college freshman strutting around campus in a crinkled oxford with a yesstyle-esque peacoat, topped with some loosely fitting chinos and off-brown boat shoes. These kinds of people are easy to spot, and you should keep an eye out for what works for them and what doesn't. You can dress nicely/preppy at college, but wearing a blazer to class isnt going to impress anybody. Menswear is difficult to pull off if you're <22-23, so try to avoid making your entire wardrobe comprise of it.

=== Your shoes, probably ===
This section should link to a separate page detailing common bad design features in shoes. For example: square toes, corrected grain.

[[Why You Should Never Buy Cheap Shoes]]

=== Shoe and Belt mismatch ===
If you are wearing a leather dress shoe or boot, and a leather belt, there are some rules about color.

If the shoes are brown, the belt cannot be black. If the shoes are black, the belt cannot be brown. Matching shoe and belt color is fine for brown or black but usually will look odd with colors like white or blue. Bold colors or white are usually not acceptable for leather belts. Casual belts made of other materials or with prints do not need to be matched by color to shoes.

In summary: '''Black belt and brown shoes is bad. Black shoes and tan belt is bad.''' etc.

===Dressing Like a Fictional Character===
You ''will'' look like a try-hard faggot.

[[File:Goslinglookalike.jpg|thumb|200px|Guys who look exactly like Ryan Gosling|left]]

Denim 101

2013-08-09T04:10:47Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made of whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans. Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are the terms so important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.

Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 32”) than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

None of this is to say that non selvedge fabric makes for "bad" jeans, but selvedge does make for a more authentic jean with a more visually appealing seam and more interesting fabric to the discerning viewer. Whether you're buying selvedge or non selvedge jeans, quality is often a reflection of cost, though. Expect to spend over $100 at retail for a decent pair whether or not you decide to buy a selvedge pair. Also note that the price difference between a selvedge and nonselvedge jean at this level might be completely negligible depending on the brand.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sanforization====
Sanforizing the denim is the process of evening out the shrinkage and has no effect on the color or quality. When the denim is sanforized, it is already shrunk for you. Most denim nowadays is sanforized so when you finally wash the denim it shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans like Flat Head and Iron Heart. Unsanforized denim should be soaked BEFORE you wear them, that way you shrink them down ahead of time so you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them. Also, the denim will stretch with wear (less than 10%). Every brand is different.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue wear it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, consider wearing something else if there is rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause really unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Fabreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but trust me, it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP
*Uniqlo
*Levis
*Cheap Monday
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew $96+

====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-08-09T04:10:20Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction. Some of this information is a little off and it's messy; I'm going through it.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made of whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans (that is, the jeans haven't been washed after the color treatment process during production). The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans. Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are the terms so important?

First, let's talk a little more about what selvedge means.

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.

Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 32”) than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

None of this is to say that non selvedge fabric makes for "bad" jeans, but selvedge does make for a more authentic jean with a more visually appealing seam and more interesting fabric to the discerning viewer. Whether you're buying selvedge or non selvedge jeans, quality is often a reflection of cost, though. Expect to spend over $100 at retail for a decent pair whether or not you decide to buy a selvedge pair. Also note that the price difference between a selvedge and nonselvedge jean at this level might be completely negligible depending on the brand.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sanforization====
Sanforizing the denim is the process of evening out the shrinkage and has no effect on the color or quality. When the denim is sanforized, it is already shrunk for you. Most denim nowadays is sanforized so when you finally wash the denim it shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim manufactures, however, specialize in unsanforized jeans like Flat Head and Iron Heart. Unsanforized denim should be soaked BEFORE you wear them, that way you shrink them down ahead of time so you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them. Also, the denim will stretch with wear (less than 10%). Every brand is different.

====Indigo Staining====

Under certain conditions, raw jeans can transfer indigo dye onto other clothes and upholstery. Different jeans will bleed to different extents but generally speaking, rough or repeated physical contact with light colored items, or contact with wet or damp light colored items will encourage color transfer. Be careful wearing whites and light colored shoes (canvas and even suede) with raw jeans. Cuffing can reduce the chance of color bleeding onto your shoes, though. I've even heard of people taping the inside of their pants to prevent staining, but this is a pretty extreme measure. Wet items will pick up indigo very easily, however. I once rinsed a white shirt to remove a stain only to have it stained blue wear it came in contact with my jeans. Needless to say, consider wearing something else if there is rain in the forecast.

Altogether, staining isn't a tremendous concern, but is something to be aware of. If it does concern you that much, consider soaking your raw jeans before wearing them. An initial soak will remove some of the excess dye and starch left over from the production process and shouldn't affect fading much later on.

If you do stain your clothing with indigo, try using saddle soap or Fels-Naptha (which I've personally had success with) to wash it out. And, as with any stain, work quickly if possible, and don't allow to dry and set in.

====Washing & Soaking====

The rule of thumb (if you're looking for pronounced or high contrast fading) is to wait at least 6 months to wash raw jeans. This is just a guideline, though. If you sit around in your raws all day posting on /fa/, it'll take longer to get fades than someone who's moving about a lot. Your best option is pay attention to how the jeans are fading by themselves. With wear you'll notice highlights around creases or stress points. When you start to see noticeable fading along the whiskers (creases around the crotch) and honeycombs (creases behind the knee), it might be time to wash your jeans.

The basic method of washing them is rather simple: fill a tub with room temperature water, add in a color safe detergent like Woolite Black, turn the jeans inside out, lay them flat in the tub, gently submerge for 1-2 hours, rinse with cold water, and then hang dry.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lduOjXxjQeU] [http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/09/the-samurai-jeans-co-guide-to-washing-raw-jeans/] [http://www.norsestore.com/blog/106-norse-projects-raw-denim-washing-guide] [http://www.raleighworkshop.com/index.php?/contact/contact/]

If you don't care about fades or dye loss, you should still line dry and wash with care. Dryers can cause really unfavorable shrinkage and change the look of the fabric.

If your jeans start to stink from excessive wear, Fabreeze and an extended line dry can help. One thing that doesn't work: the infamous freezer method. Freezing your jeans might seem to get rid of the smell temporarily, but trust me, it'll be back (and pretty quickly).

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If they're longer than you want, you can simply have them hemmed (this will cost anywhere between $5-25 depending on the tailor and the type of hem (that $25 price would be a chain stitch from Self Edge). Remember that even if your jeans are sanforized you might still see some shrinkage when you wash (in some cases up to 2" in length). Some people recommend waiting until after the first wash before soaking, but honestly you can just have them hemmed and leave yourself a little wiggle room (say, take the seam down to a 32" if what you really want is a 30". Washing in cold water and line drying will further reduce the chances of unwanted shrinkage.

Some people like the extra inseam, though, to cuff or create mad stacks. Ultimately it's personal preference.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP
*Uniqlo
*Levis
*Cheap Monday
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew $96+

====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Levi's

2013-08-08T02:58:05Z

Niggeragua:

[[File:levis1.jpg|thumb|200px|Levi's logo.]]

Founded in 1853, Levi Strauss & Co. is a San Francisco based clothing company known primarily for their denim jeans. The company patented the use of copper reinforcing rivets in 1873, which helped to prevent tears at stress points like pocket corners and at the base of a button fly. The two horse logo was meant to showcase this design and the strength of the jeans, especially in lieu of a patent on the technique, which passed into the public domain in 1890. Soon after, the company assigned the lot number "501" to one of its preexisting pants, which would become its best selling jean.

For over a century Levi's made selvedge jeans in styles that adopted contemporary trends. Even the fit of the 501 was modified, its 1954 incarnation featuring a uniquely tapered leg.

However, in response to competition from cheaper imported goods in the 1990s, Levi's began aggressively outsourcing its clothing production and closed domestic factories. By 1985, according to Miles Johnson, design director of Levi's Vintage Clothing, selvage denim ceased to be standard in Levi's jeans. "When using cheaper alternatives, they could make four legs worth from one piece of fabric versus two. The fascination with [and reintroduction of] selvage didn't start until more recently." By 2003, the company had closed the last of its two remaining factories in the United States.

While Levi's still enjoys success as a jeans manufacturer and a favorable perception due to its heritage, any animosity on /fa/ towards the company's jeans stems from this outsourcing which signaled a marked decline in fabric and construction quality. This applies most directly to Levi's Mainline clothing and lower branches of production. Levi's Made and Crafted and Levi's Vintage Clothing operate in a higher price bracket and still offer clothing of considerable merit.

Levi's products are available worldwide and it's company divided into three geographic divisions: Levi Strauss Americas (LSA), based in the San Francisco headquarters; Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and Africa (LSEMA), based in Brussels; and Asia Pacific Division (APD), based in Singapore. The company also owns the Dockers brand, which it launched in 1986.

==Branches of Production/Lines==

[[File:1954 501.jpg|thumb|300px|The 1954 501. A reproduction by Levis Vintage Clothing.]]
Levis produces clothing at different price points to accommodate different consumers. Made & Crafted, Vintage, and some of the higher end Mainline jeans are really the only "properly" good jeans Levi's produces.

'''[http://www.levistrausssignature.com/ Levi's Signature]''': Produced for discount retailers: Walmart, in the U.S. and Canada, and Kmart, Shopko, Blain’s Farm & Fleet, Hamrick’s and Meijer in the U.S. all priced at under $25; straight line on pocket rather than the Arcuate.

'''[http://www.target.com/c/denizen-brand-shop/-/N-5n5qe dENiZEN]''': Exclusively for Target. Retails at $29.99 or less. Honestly worse than Signature. If you're going to get jeans at Target you're better off getting Mossimo.

'''Levi's Made for Outlet''': Carried at outlets and lower end retailers like Kohl's. Quality is generally poor, but noticeably better than Denizen or Signature.

'''Levi's Mainline''': "Normal" Levi's, carried at Levi's mainline stores and mid level retailers like Macy's. Denim, seaming, and dyes are okay, not good. What you'd expect at this price range.

'''[http://www.levismadeandcrafted.com/ Levi's Made and Crafted]''': Bridge line of sorts, carried at major mainline stores and certain major retailers like Neiman Marcus. Quality is good. See [http://levismadeandcrafted.com/shops.html where to shop]

'''[http://www.levisvintageclothing.com/ Levi's Vintage Clothing]''': High end reproduction of vintage garments and new garments inspired by vintage pieces. Also reproduces specific historical jeans. Very good quality, carried at only a few flagships (Union Square in SF, Beverly Hills, and Times Square) and high end department stores like Barney's, Saks, etc. See [http://www.levisvintageclothing.com/shops.html Where to Shop]. Also, [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgWWohIXOCo see their promotional video for Mr Porter.]

==Fit Styles==

====Levi's Mainline and Outlet====

'''Warning''': The pictures on Levi's main site are notorious for misrepresenting how the jeans actually fit. Generally recommended fits include the 511, 510, 514, and 501, and less commonly the 513 and 508. Avoid bootcuts and "relaxed" fits.

'''510 Skinny Fit''' - Mid rise (10"), 13.5” leg opening. Skinniest fit, slim through seat and thigh, all the way down to ankle. Only for those with slim legs and thighs.

'''511 Slim Fit''' - Low rise (9"), 14.5” leg opening. slim through thigh with a slightly tapered leg. The most commonly recommended cut of Levis.

'''513 Slim Straight''' - Mid rise (10.5"), 15" leg opening. Slim leg, slimmer than 514 with a higher rise.

'''508 Regular Taper''' (formerly 521) Mid rise (11.5"), 14"opening. Slim fit, tapered leg, more room in the seat than the 513. Recommended by /fit/ fags who have THIGHS BIGGER THAN YOUR HEAD

'''514 Straight Fit''' - Mid Rise (10"), 17” leg opening. Close through the seat and thigh with straight leg.

'''501 Original'''; High Rise (11"), 17" leg opening Straight leg, slimmer through seat and thigh than the 505. Also available in unsanforized Shrink-to-Fit versions and high quality vintage replicas from Levi's Vintage Clothing. A good choice for men with larger thighs.

'''520 Extreme Taper''' ''They seem to have stopped making this fit.''

'''517 Boot Cut''' - High rise (11.5"), 18.25” leg opening. Slim fit, boot cut leg.

'''505 Regular Fit''' - High rise (11"), 16.5" opening. Relaxed seat and thigh, straight leg.

'''527 Slim Boot Cut '''- Mid rise (10"), 18.25” leg opening. Regular seat and thigh, bootcut leg.

'''550 Relaxed Fit''' - High rise (11"), 16.5” leg opening. Relaxed seat and thigh, slightly tapered leg.

'''559 Relaxed Straight''' - Mid Rise (10"), 18” leg opening. Relaxed seat and thigh.

'''560 Comfort Fit''' - High Rise (11"), 16” leg opening. Loose overall fit and loose seat and thigh. Tapered leg.

'''562 Loose Tapered '''- High Rise (11"), 16 1/2" leg opening. Relaxed through the seat and thigh, slightly tapered leg.

'''569 Loose Straight''' - High rise, 18.5” leg opening. Loose seat and thigh. Straight leg.

''The 510, 511, 514, 501, 505, 559, and 569 are mainline, online, and outlet. 550, 560, and 527 are outlet and online. 508, 513, and 517 are mainline/online only although a handful of the top selling outlets receive them.''

''Courtesy for some of this information goes to Levi's fag who posted on /fa/ a while ago:''
[[File:1351467817500.png|200px|thumb|left|]]

==== Levi's Made & Crafted====

'''Needle''': Skinny; narrow jean with a skinny fit, regular rise, skinny leg and a zip fly.

'''Tack''': Slim straight; a slim, zipper fly jean based on a classic Levi’s fit from the 1960s

'''Ruler''': Straight leg fit.

'''Tailor''': Tapered, high rise jean with a rounded top block. It tapers from the knee down to the ankle.

'''Shuttle''': Loose Tapered; high rise easy fitting jean that is comfortable through the hips but tapers from the inseam to the ankle for a clean, slim and fitted silhouette.

'''Cutter''': Relaxed; high rise jean that has a straight leg and is relaxed through the thigh.

====Links====
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levi_Strauss_%26_Co. Wikipedia Article]

[http://www.levisvintageclothing.com/timeline.html#timeline_501 The Evolution of the 501]

[http://www.levistrauss.com/sites/default/files/librarydocument/2010/4/history_of_levis_501_jeans.pdf Company Timeline]

[http://www.nytimes.com/1993/07/18/world/made-usa-hard-labor-pacific-island-special-report-saipan-sweatshops-are-no.html Made in the U.S.A.? -- Hard Labor on a Pacific Island/A special report.; Saipan Sweatshops Are No American Dream]

[http://www.cio.com/article/print/31948 CIO article on Levi's creation of budget lines]

[http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/04/chats-with-kick-ass-menswear-guys-miles-johnson-of-levis-xx.html Interview with Miles Johnson] design director at Levi's Vintage Clothing and Levi's Made & Crafted

[http://www.commondreams.org/headlines03/0926-03.htm Levi's to Close Last U.S. Plants]

Outerwear

2013-08-07T18:24:08Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction

==Wool Coats and Jackets==

[[File:topcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Single breasted donegal over coat.]]
====Over Coat====

A heavy coat that is worn over a suit or a jacket; generally extends down past the knee. Traditionally made of fabrics as thick as 30 oz or more per yard. There are a variety of overcoats like the polo coat, the covert coat, the Ulster, and the Chesterfield. They can seem antiquated, especially if they're too long.

[[File:topcoat1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Club Monaco camel top coat.]]
====Top Coat====

Essentially a lightweight over coat that ends at or above the knee. These are still fairly popular and can be found from a variety of retailers.

[[File:duffle.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gloverall Duffel Coat.]]
====Duffle Coat====

Named after the Belgian clothmaking town of Duffel, this coat was actually has roots in a Polish design before being modified by a British outfitter and eventually commissioned for use by the British military. Its personal use by the British Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery even led to the coat being referred to as a "Monty coat" in the UK. Made of a heavy woolen fabric, it features toggle closures made out of wood, horn, or plastic, a large hood, a square shoulder yoke, large front pockets, and traditionally a tartan lining. This jacket trended heavily in the fall/winter season of 2012 and might be popular this upcoming winter as well.

[[File:peacoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Schott NYC pea coat.]]
====Pea Coat====

Worn by sailors for centuries, the pea coat features a large lapel, a double breasted front, a double row of buttons, and a thick wool fabric. Very popular a few years ago. /fa/ tricked a lot of people into buying them by claiming they were "timeless."

[[File:letterman1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|]]
====Letterman====
x

==Cotton==

[[File:field jacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Designer Milan Vukmirovic wearing a field jacket.]]
====Field Jackets====

A broad range of jackets with a similar design and aesthetic, these are generically called fatigue, field, mechanic, or utility jackets. Typically made with cotton fabrics and feature four front pockets, a small collar, and occasionally a hood and epaulets.

[[File:m51m65.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Vintage and new versions of the M-51 and M-65.]]
====Military Field Jackets====

The M51 and M65, introduced in 1951 and 1965 respectively, are specific types of field jackets originally issued by the United States military. The most notable difference between the two is that the hood of the m-65 folds up and zips into the collar.

[[File:Waxedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Barbour X To Ki To Beacon Heritage Sports Jacket.]]
====Waxed Cotton====
x

[[File:Trenchcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Burberry trench coat.]]
====Trench====
Don't wear a trench coat. Just don't.

[[File:Mac.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Brooks Brothers Mac.]]
====Mac====
x

[[File:chore.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Vintage denim chore coat.]]
====Chore====
A very simple jacket, traditionally worn by laborers and made of denim or canvas, the chore coat features a small collar and 2-4 open patch pockets. Pointer Brand is well known for their chore jackets, and Schott NYC makes a particularly handsome wool version.

[[File:harrington.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Harrington====
Originally designed by Baracuta and dubbed the "G9," this jacket was popularized in the late 1950s by Elvis and by Ryan O'Neal, whose character Rodney Harrington inspired the nickname. Waist length, made of cotton, coated or waxed cotton, or synthetic fabrics, a tartan lining, and a unique tab collar. This jacket had a bit of a comeback a few years ago and is versatile enough to fit in mod and skinhead as well as more preppy outfits. The tan versions, however, tend to seem old man core.

[[File:denimjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Levis denim jacket.]]
====Denim====
x

==Synthetics==
[[File:quiltedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Joules Foxton quilted jacket.]]
====Quilted Jackets====
Originally [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/quilted-jackets-guide-buy-history/ invented by Steve Guylas in 1965], an American who retired from the US Air Force and moved to England, the quilted jacket was used for hunting, equestrianism, and other sports. Typically features a corduroy collar, a single breasted front with snap button closures, and patch pockets. Cheaper models will use nylon or polyester shells, but more expensive ones may use polyamide. Barbour is well known for their quilted jackets, but their models tend to be poorly fitted. Some of the nicest version come from companies not dedicated to the heritage of the boxy original, like Burberry Prosum or Ralph Lauren.

history basic info (when, who)
history (what originally used for)
characteristics of garment
general (helpful consumer) info
brand recs

[[File:puffer.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Bottega Veneta quilted down and the Eddie Bauer Skyliner.]]
====Quilted Down Jacket aka The Puffer Jacket====
The quilted down jacket was introduced in [http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/10/dropping-knowledge-the-puffer-jacket.html 1936 by Eddie Bauer] as a light weight and water resistant alternative to wool jackets that he dubbed the Skyliner. The quilting served a functional purpose: to keep the down in place. Nowadays down jackets can be found everywhere, and Uniqlo is well known for their line of quilted downs. They're extremely versatile and "easy to wear."

[[File:gilet.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Canada Goose Gilet.]]
====Gilet====
x

[[File:parka.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant Parka.]]
====Parka====
x

[[File:bomberjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Bomber or Flight Jacket====
x

[[File:rainjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Supreme fishtail rain jacket.]]
====Rain Jacket====
Typically styled like a parka, rain jackets are a good alternative to an umbrella. Better versions afford some breathability

[[File:windbreaker.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant nylon hoodie.]]
====Wind Breaker====
A lightweight jacket typically cinched at the sleeves, waist length or longer, with a zippered front. A very basic jacket, I like to keep a packable wind and water resistant jacket on hand in case of bad weather.

File:Windbreaker.jpg

2013-08-07T16:50:00Z

Niggeragua:

File:Waxedjacket.jpg

2013-08-07T16:03:24Z

Niggeragua:

File:Chore.jpg

2013-08-07T15:44:08Z

Niggeragua:

Denim 101

2013-08-06T18:36:52Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction. Some of this information is a little off and it's messy; I'm going through it.

===Selvedge and Raw===
[[File:Selvedge2.jpg|thumb|300px|right|]]
[[File:Selvedge1.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Selvedge and non selvedge denim.]]
[[File:Selvedge3.jpg|thumb|200px|right|]]
The two are often confused or conflated for one another, but "raw" and "selvedge" are two fundamentally different properties of denim (and, more broadly, of fabric). "Selvedge" refers to the ''type of fabric'' that the jeans are made of whereas "raw" denotes the ''unwashed state'' of the jeans. The telltale sign of jeans made with selvedge denim is the so-called "selvedge line" or white taping that runs down the outseam on the inside of a pair of jeans. Raw jeans, on the other hand, can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric.

Raw jeans don't have to be selvedge and selvedge jeans don't have to be raw. Furthermore, neither of these qualities necessarily denotes the quality of the denim. What, then, is the connection between the two and why are the terms so important?

First, let's talk a little more about what these terms mean.

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.

Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on an old style shuttle loom which creates the unique edge that is typically used on the outseam of jeans. The result is a clean edge where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't be frayed like non-selvage jeans.

The shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 32”) than modern, wide projectile looms. Furthermore, the process tends to produce a tighter weave, requiring more material to produce an equivalent yardage. While this makes for a more appealing fabric, it costs more to produce, which is why many denim manufacturers switched to wider projectile looms in the mid to late 1900s.

Nowadays, most jeans are made using fabric produced on wide projectile looms. These looms produce more fabric more quickly and use less cotton per square yard. The fabric doesn't "complete" the way that selvedge fabric does, and thus the outseam needs to be sewn to prevent fraying.

None of this is to say that non selvedge fabric makes for "bad" jeans, but selvedge does make for a more authentic jean with a more visually appealing seam and more interesting fabric to the discerning viewer. Whether you're buying selvedge or non selvedge jeans, quality is often a reflection of cost, though. Expect to spend over $100 at retail for a decent pair whether or not you decide to buy a selvedge pair. Also note that the price difference between a selvedge and nonselvedge jean at this level might be completely negligible depending on the brand.

====Why Buy Raw?====
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress. Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look. Raw denim is unwashed before being sold. With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body. With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off. The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee. You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).

====Sanforization====
Sanforizing the denim is the process of evening out the shrinkage and has no effect on the color or quality. When the denim is sanforized, it is already shrunk for you. Most denim now is sanforized so when you finally wash the denim it shouldn’t shrink that much. Some Japanese denim are unsanforized, they are shrink to fit. Unsanforized denim should be soaked BEFORE you wear them, that way you shrink them down ahead of time so you won't have uneven fades when you eventually wash them. Also, the denim will stretch with wear (less than 10%). Every brand is different.

====Indigo Staining====
Wearing raws can bleed some indigo with first couple of wears. Different jeans have different tendencies with the bleeding. Be careful wearing whites and light colors as they will stain. To keep them coming off your shoes, tape around the inside of the leg opening on the jeans to help eliminate the dye. You can try soaking the waist and leg opening with water to avoid the bleeding. If you already have indigo on your shoes or clothing, a simply wash should take it right out.

====Washing & Soaking====

There are several methods for washing. Most recommend if you wear your jeans constantly wait at least 6 months to wash them in hot water with detergent then hang dry them. Another method is to wear them into the ocean (not dirty oceans!) and then rinse them out with fresh (non salted) water and hang dry them. While you do not have to wait so long to wash your jeans, you will get the highest contrast fades if you wait since when you wash them the creases you created will be washed out and you might not get the creases in the same place, thus slowing down the fading. If your jeans aren’t that dirty, try soaking them instead. What does soaking do? Soaking cleans the denim, shrinks, and removes starch. Fill a bath tub full of water and lay the jeans inside out flat to float. Place bottles or something heavy on each leg and side to sink the jeans. The hotter the water, the more they will shrink. If your jeans aren’t that dirty but just stink, fabreeze them.

====Hemming====

Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams. If you have lots of stacking or unwanted length, it is suggested that you soak them to shrink and dry BEFORE HEMMING. Depending on the denim, you can lose 2 inches off the original inseam. While you wear the jeans for extended periods of time without washing, the creasing will eat up the inseam as well. So even if you soak or wash them before hemming, you should still allow an extra inch at least. Hemming by a professional tailor should be your last option. Stacking (taking all the extra length and pushing it down to your ankles to make them break and settle) or cuffing the hems are a nice alternative to hemming. It is not recommended to put jeans into dryer unless you want them to shrink radically and create wrinkles. Be advised the fit can possibly mess up in the dryer as well.

==A List of Recommended Brands==

====Under $100====

*GAP
*Uniqlo
*Levis
*Cheap Monday
*Unbranded $78+, Made in Macau of Japanese denim
*J.Crew $96+

====$100-200====

*Gustin $99, Made in SF, USA of Japanese denim
*Williamsburg Garment Company $105+, Made in the USA and imported styles, Japanese denim
*April 77 $130+
*United Dry Stock Goods $135+ Made in USA of Japanese denim
*Naked and Famous $135+ ; Made in Canada, Japanese denim (Gilt often sells them for $89)
*Left Field NYC $175+ ; Made in the USA, Cone Mills denim
*Nudie $179+ made in Italy, denim from Italy, Japan, and Turkey
*APC $185+ Made in Macau, Japanese denim
*BLK DNM $190+

====$200-300====

*Edwin $200+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*ACNE $200+ Made in Turkey, Italy, Albania
*Rogue Territory $210+; Made in the USA; Nihon Menpu Mills denim, Cone Mills denim
*3sixteen $215+ made in USA, Kuroki Mills denim, Japanese Denim
*Tellason $220+ made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Levi's Vintage Clothing $250+ (for 501xx) Cone Mills denim, Made in USA
*Pure Blue Japan $275 Made in Japan, Japanese denim

====$300&UP====

*Momotaro $315+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Roy $335+ Made in USA, Cone Mills denim
*Samurai $345+ Japanese denim, Made in Japan
*Iron Heart $360+ Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Flat Head $335 Made in Japan, Japanese denim
*Dior $390+

==Resources and Retailers:==

'''Info'''

[http://toddshelton.com/blog/jeans/selvage-denim What is Selvedge Denim?] a visual run down of selvedge and how it differs from non selvedge.

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/ Rawr Denim], a great resource. Check out their "fade friday."

[http://www.rawrdenim.com/2012/08/raw-denim-myths-the-truth-about-selvedge-denim/ Raw Denim Myths]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvymUM8a-NU Selvedge Myth Busting]. Take this info with a grain of salt.

[http://chanarchive.org/4chan/fa/5002/denim-guide Archived Denim Guide]

[http://www.denimology.com/ Denimology]

'''Shops'''

[http://blueingreensoho.com/ Blue in Green]

[http://blueowl.us/ BlueOwl]

[http://www.selfedge.com/ Selfedge]

[http://tateandyoko.com/ Tate + Yoko ] (Canada)

[http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ Superdenim] (UK)

Denim 101

2013-08-06T18:32:01Z

Niggeragua:

Outerwear

2013-08-06T18:30:11Z

Niggeragua:

Page is under construction

==Wool Coats and Jackets==

[[File:topcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Single breasted donegal over coat.]]
====Over Coat====

A heavy coat that is worn over a suit or a jacket; generally extends down past the knee. Traditionally made of fabrics as thick as 30 oz or more per yard. There are a variety of overcoats like the polo coat, the covert coat, the Ulster, and the Chesterfield. They can seem antiquated, especially if they're too long.

[[File:topcoat1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Club Monaco camel top coat.]]
====Top Coat====

Essentially a lightweight over coat that ends at or above the knee. These are still fairly popular and can be found from a variety of retailers.

[[File:duffle.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gloverall Duffel Coat.]]
====Duffle Coat====

Named after the Belgian clothmaking town of Duffel, this coat was actually has roots in a Polish design before being modified by a British outfitter and eventually commissioned for use by the British military. Its personal use by the British Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery even led to the coat being referred to as a "Monty coat" in the UK. Made of a heavy woolen fabric, it features toggle closures made out of wood, horn, or plastic, a large hood, a square shoulder yoke, large front pockets, and traditionally a tartan lining. This jacket trended heavily in the fall/winter season of 2012 and might be popular this upcoming winter as well.

[[File:peacoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Schott NYC pea coat.]]
====Pea Coat====

Worn by sailors for centuries, the pea coat features a large lapel, a double breasted front, a double row of buttons, and a thick wool fabric. Very popular a few years ago. /fa/ tricked a lot of people into buying them by claiming they were "timeless."

[[File:letterman1.jpg|thumb|200px|left|]]
====Letterman====
x

==Cotton==

[[File:field jacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Designer Milan Vukmirovic wearing a field jacket.]]
====Field Jackets====

A broad range of jackets with a similar design and aesthetic, these are generically called fatigue, field, mechanic, or utility jackets. Typically made with cotton fabrics and feature four front pockets, a small collar, and occasionally a hood and epaulets.

[[File:m51m65.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Vintage and new versions of the M-51 and M-65.]]
====Military Field Jackets====

The M51 and M65, introduced in 1951 and 1965 respectively, are specific types of field jackets originally issued by the United States military. The most notable difference between the two is that the hood of the m-65 folds up and zips into the collar.

[[File:Waxedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Waxed Cotton====
x

[[File:Trenchcoat.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Trench====
xx

[[File:Mac.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Brooks Brothers Mac.]]
====Mac====
x

[[File:chore.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Chore====
x

[[File:harrington.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Harrington====
x

[[File:denimjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Levis denim jacket.]]
====Denim====
x

==Synthetics==
[[File:quiltedjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Joules Foxton quilted jacket.]]
====Quilted Jackets====
Originally [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/quilted-jackets-guide-buy-history/ invented by Steve Guylas in 1965], an American who retired from the US Air Force and moved to England, the quilted jacket was used for hunting, equestrianism, and other sports. Typically features a corduroy collar, a single breasted front with snap button closures, and patch pockets. Cheaper models will use nylon or polyester shells, but more expensive ones may use polyamide. Barbour is well known for their quilted jackets, but their models tend to be poorly fitted. Some of the nicest version come from companies not dedicated to the heritage of the boxy original, like Burberry Prosum or Ralph Lauren.

history basic info (when, who)
history (what originally used for)
characteristics of garment
general (helpful consumer) info
brand recs

[[File:puffer.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Bottega Veneta quilted down and the Eddie Bauer Skyliner.]]
====Quilted Down Jacket aka The Puffer Jacket====
The quilted down jacket was introduced in [http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/10/dropping-knowledge-the-puffer-jacket.html 1936 by Eddie Bauer] as a light weight and water resistant alternative to wool jackets that he dubbed the Skyliner. The quilting served a functional purpose: to keep the down in place. Nowadays down jackets can be found everywhere, and Uniqlo is well known for their line of quilted downs. They're extremely versatile and "easy to wear."

[[File:gilet.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Canada Goose Gilet.]]
====Gilet====
x

[[File:parka.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Gant Parka.]]
====Parka====
x

[[File:bomberjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Bomber or Flight Jacket====
x

[[File:rainjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Supreme fishtail rain jacket.]]
====Rain Jacket====
Typically styled like a parka, rain jackets are a good alternative to an umbrella. Better versions afford some breathability

[[File:windbreaker.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Wind Breaker====
x

[[File:trackjacket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|.]]
====Track Jacket====
x

Men's Basics

2013-08-06T18:29:06Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also read the [[Introduction]].

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a low setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, American Apparel (fine jersey & tri blend), Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn you cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]

Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants.

A Note on Breaks:
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [[Levi's]] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your jeans than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearers body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is, to an extent, an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim.

See [[Denim 101]] for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*[[Sneakers]]: Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*[[Boots]]: Boots are a good option for warmer months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*Dress [[Shoes]]: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans to should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See [[Outerwear]] for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

Don't wear fedoras or other brimmed hats unless it's purely utilitarian (i.e. to keep your neck from burning) or you live in an area where a particular style (such as a stetson) is common. In other words, if you are actually at a rodeo, cowboy.

'''Watches'''

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

'''Glasses & Sunglasses'''

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

Men's Basics

2013-08-06T18:27:03Z

Niggeragua:

New to /fa/? Come here from MFA and need to start over? Girlfriend burn your clothes? We understand.

Below, you will find a quick guide to wardrobe essentials.

Also read the [[Introduction]].

== Tops ==

===T-Shirts===
[[File:teeshirt.jpg|thumb|250px|Acne crew neck tee.]]

'''Color:'''
White, navy, black, heather grey, slate, and dark green can be worn with almost anything without much thought and work with most skin tones. Pale versions of otherwise bold colors will also tend to be more versatile than their more richly colored counterparts--pale pink, pale yellow, pale blue (as opposed to electric blue), etc. Solid color tees should suit your skin and hair, not clash with or closely match your skin tone. And, in general, men with darker features will find it easier to wear bolder colors.

Men might find color selection to be one of the more difficult aspects of clothing selection, and much of the advice floating around online isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to experiment with different colors--eliciting the advice of a trusted friend if possible. Even if a color is considered extremely versatile, if you don't like the way it makes you look, don't wear it.

'''Fit:'''
Try to find tees that aren't too loose or too tight. And while there is no "ideal fit" (some men like to wear over sized tees to emphasize their leanness), one of the fundamentals of dressing well is knowing how things ''should'' fit. One of the most important markers is the shoulder seam. It should line up with the "point" of your shoulder.

There are also multiple styles of necklines such as the scoop neck and the v neck, but the crew neck will be the most versatile. A crew neck is simply the ubiquitous rounded neckline that most tees have. V necks, however, are ideal undershirts as they remain hidden when worn underneath a partially unbuttoned shirt.

'''Other Considerations'''
*If you prefer a looser fit, don't just buy normal tees in a larger size. Buy tees that are cut for an over sized style.

*If you don't want the sleeves of a tee to flare out search for companies that make tees with tapered sleeves like Uniqlo, J Crew, or James Perse.

*Consider whether you prefer thicker or thinner material for your tees.

*Consider how you'd like your tees to hold up after multiple washes. A cheaper shirt might look nice at first, but careless washing may cause it to quickly pill (become nappy), warp, fade, or even come undone along the seams. This is especially true of tees with synthetic blends. In general, cold water and line drying or drying on a low setting will help maintain the shirt's original look.

*Other styles of tees: thermal tees, raglan (aka baseball tees), henleys, patterned tees (color blocked, striped, speckled etc.), and graphic tees are all great additions to a wardrobe.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $10''

*Gildan, H&M, Mossimo Supply Co. (aka Target brand, "athletic fit"), Uniqlo

''$15-45''
*Everlane, GAP, American Apparel (fine jersey & tri blend), Alternative Apparel, J Crew

''$45 & Up''

*James Perse, Acne, Sunspel, Alexander Wang, Jil Sander, Our Legacy

===Shirts===
[[File:shirt2.jpg|thumb|250px|Patrik Ervell heavy button collar shirt.]]
Button-downs and button-ups are often simply referred to as "shirts" by clothiers. As with anything else, having the right fit is important. Nowadays, well tailored, slim fitting shirts are easy to find (look or ask for shirts denoted as "slim"), but consider taking your shirts to a tailor if you can't find that perfect fit off the rack, especially if it's for a minor alteration like having a sleeve shortened.

'''Color:'''
Solid colored oxfords (white and light blue are popular) and at least one white dress shirt (to be worn with a suit) is a good starting point. Plaids are also a fine option, including patterns like gingham, tattersall, and madras.

'''Fit:'''
A shirt's shoulder seams should fit around the top of your shoulder. This is the most important part of a proper fit, as it is the most difficult to alter. A shirt's waist should not puff out. This indicates that the shirt is cut too boxy (a "traditional" fit) or is too large. Look for ready tailored shirts denoted as "slim" or "tailored."

'''Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts'''

Note the difference between dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts feature a stiff collar and/or collar stays, a spread collar (to accommodate a tie), will generally be made of finer fabrics, will not have more than one pocket, and may size by sleeve and neck measurements. Sport shirts are often made out of coarser fabrics like oxford cloth, may have multiple pockets, feature less conservative patterns, a button down collar, and may use small, medium, and large sizing.

Dress shirts should generally not be worn causally and should be tucked in. Sport shirts can be worn causally, but also with a suit and tie in less formal occasions. If worn untucked, a shirt should extend mid way down the fly, but not farther than the bottom of the fly.

'''Other notes'''
*Generally, avoid black dress shirts unless you're top gun at the local Applebees.

*Avoid over designed shirts: embellishments like epaulets and buttoned tabs down the middle of the sleeve look like shit.

*Shirts do not have to be washed after every wear, especially worn with an undershirt. Wash it when it becomes dirty or smells. If you care about your clothing, take care in how you wash it.

*Leave the top button undone unless you're wearing a tie.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $50''

*Asos, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Under $100''
*Polo Ralph Lauren (look for "custom" and "slim" fit shirts), J Crew, Club Monaco, Bonobos, Brooks Brothers (look for slim styles)

''Over $100''
*Gant, J Press/York Street, Gitman Bros, Gitman Vintage, Patrik Ervell, Thom Browne

===Sweaters, Knits, and Hoodies===
[[File:sweater1.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander camel and wool blend sweater.]]
Cotton sweaters, wool knits, cardigans, and hoodies allow for layering in casual and business casual environments.

'''Color:'''
Navy, black, grey and heather grey are common choices for cotton crews and hoodies; and navy, grey, camel, dark grey, and dark green for fine woolen sweaters.

'''Fit:'''
You should generally buy the same size sweater that you buy for shirts, despite the common misconception that there is a need to "size up" to accommodate for the shirt underneath.

Thick woolen sweaters are inherently more casual and should generally not be used for business environments. Fine woolen v neck sweaters offer room for ties and while these can be worn casually, especially deep v necks should not be worn without ties.

Feel free to purchase sweaters with different patterns and styles like stripes, color blocked sweaters, speckled Donegal sweaters, cable knit sweaters, fisherman sweaters, etc.

But, for the love of god, do not buy an argyle sweater.

====Recommended Brands====

'''Cotton Hoodies and Sweaters'''

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, American Apparel, J Crew, American Giant, Archival

''Over $100''
*Norse Projects, Acne, A.P.C, Carhartt WIP, Reigning Champ, Loopwheeler, The Real McCoy, Left Field, Our Legacy, Wings + Horns, Sunspel, Alexander Wang

'''Wool Knits'''

''Under $100''
*Uniqlo, J Crew, Banana Republic

''Over $100''
*Folk, Jil Sander, A.P.C, Zanone, Zegna

== Bottoms ==

===Shorts===
[[File:shorts.jpg|thumb|250px|Incotex linen and cotton blend shorts.]]

As a beginner, opt for solid colored shorts like gray, navy, and khaki. Flat front chino shorts should be your first selection (burn you cargo shorts).

Look for shorts that end just above the knee cap or higher, whatever you're most comfortable with. For most men this will mean a 10" or shorter inseam. In general you'll want the opening of your shorts to be wide--wider than you'd want from your pants, both for the sake of air circulation and for looks. Skinny, thigh hugging shorts tend to be unflattering.

Chambray and linen shorts are also widely available during the spring/summer season. Seersucker, a less popular choice, is notable for its breathability and wavy texture. The only varieties generally rejected on /fa/ are plaid shorts and denim shorts.

====Recommended Brands====

''Under $50''

*H&M, Uniqlo, Gap

''Over $50''
*J Crew, Club Monaco, Vineyard Vines, Gant, Incotex, AMI

===Pants===
[[File:trousers.jpg|thumb|250px|Jil Sander wool and cashmere blend trousers featuring a slight break.]]

Slim flat front chinos in neutral and earth tones as well as navy or charcoal wool trousers work for casual and more formal outfits. (If you've never heard of the term "chino", you may have been calling them "khakis." Chino is the more correct term.)

Consider the color of your dress shoes (particularly if you don't have a variety) when selecting dress pants.

A Note on Breaks:
The "break" of a pair of pants refers to how the fabric falls, folds, or "breaks" onto the shoe. A "full break" or too much break sees the fabric folding over heavily onto the shoe. This is generally not in style and can appear careless and sloppy. A slight break or no break, on the other hand, has been popular in recent years. The term "highwaters" refers to pants so short or rolled up that the entire ankle is visible, a style exemplified by Thom Browne. Your safest option will be a slight or medium break in formal settings. Worn casually, a rolled cuff on a pair of chinos or jeans can allow for airflow during warmer months.

====Recommended brands====

''Under $100''

*Uniqlo, Dockers Alpha Khaki, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren

''Over $100''

*Epaulet, Slowear, Jil Sander

===Jeans===
[[File:jeans1.jpg|thumb|250px|United Dry Stock Goods raw selvedge denim.]]

Dark "raw" jeans and a mid blue faded jean are the most versatile jeans you can have in your wardrobe. Many men also like a pair of black jeans. It depends on personal preference.

Side Note: Outsourcing in the 90s made jeans cheaper, but didn't make them better (see our entry on [Levi's] for a case in point). We couldn't more strongly advise you--particularly if you wear jeans every day--spend more on your denim than you might be used to spending.

'''Fit:'''
Look for a fit that compliments your body. For most men, a slim tapered jean will work best (look for the term "slim") as it follows the natural shape of the leg. For larger men or men with large thighs a straight cut ("straight" or "slim straight") might be a better option. Don't feel the need to stick to any one fit either. It's nice to have some variety.

Consider buying jeans that feel snug in the waist and around the groin as denim will stretch over time.

'''Raw Denim:'''
Raw jeans come from the factory unwashed and can be identified by their uniform, dark indigo color and the stiffness of their fabric. The value of raw denim is that it allows natural fading to occur over time as indigo loosens around stress points. This stands in starch contrast (huehue) to pre-faded jeans which have artificial fading and distressing that often appears inauthentic, out of sync with the wearers body, or simply bad.

Part of the aversion /fa/ has towards prefaded jeans, however, comes from the style's dominance in lower priced markets. "Cheap" and "prefaded" have become synonymous. This is, to an extent, an unfair generalization, and prefaded jeans at higher price points, using more sophisticated and considered processes, dyes, and construction are worth considering especially given how versatile a smartly faded blue jean can be.

'''Selvedge Jeans:''' Selvedge is a type of fabric that creates a clean edge or "self edge" visible on the outseam. A large percentage of higher end jeans are made with selvedge denim. All jeans used to be made with selvedge denim.

See [[Denim 101]] for a list of recommended brands and a guide to everything denim.

== Shoes ==

*[[Sneakers]]: Canvas sneakers are a hallmark of spring and summer outfits. Suede and leather sneakers, as well as some running sneakers, work with a variety of outfits and have the benefit of being comfortable and low profile.

*[[Boots]]: Boots are a good option for warmer months, but can be worn year round. A decent quality boot will have a certain luster and depth of color that cheaper boots won't and will be more durable.

*Dress [[Shoes]]: Essential to any wardrobe even if they're reserved for special occasions. Black or brown derbies are extremely versatile.

== Outerwear ==

Outerwear is a large subject. Asking what sort of jacket to get is different than, say, asking what sort of jeans to should get. It's a much broader topic and can be overwhelming to those just getting into clothing. One of the best ways to address this is by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of outerwear on the market.

See [[Outerwear]] for more information.

== Accessories ==
===Bags===

Messenger bags were popular a few years ago. Now backpacks are in again. You probably looked like a faggot with a messenger bag anyway.

====Backpacks:====
*Archival Clothing
*Everlane
*Eastpak
*Kletterwerks
*Hershel
*Fjallravens
*South2 West8
*Seil Marschall

===Hats===

Baseball caps and beanies are really the only safe, innocuous hat styles for men. The 5 panel hat is similar to the 6 panel baseball cap, but is more "trendy", having been adopted by hypebeasts and swagfags.

Don't wear fedoras or other brimmed hats unless it's purely utilitarian (i.e. to keep your neck from burning) or you live in an area where a particular style (such as a stetson) is common. In other words, if you are actually at a rodeo, cowboy.

'''Watches'''

Watches are one of the few socially acceptable forms of jewelry for a man to wear, but should not be considered necessary to a man's wardrobe. If you wish to purchase a watch, we recommend a simple design rather than something over designed or bulky, especially if you don't have large enough wrists to compensate.

Inexpensive:
*Timex Weekender & Easy Reader
*Swatch Irony, Body Soul
*Seiko 5

Mid range:
*Seiko Orange Monster
*Orient Mako

Entry level luxury:
*Hamilton Khaki

'''Glasses & Sunglasses'''

As a general guideline, you should choose something that accentuates your [http://www.framesdirect.com/include/information/face_shape_guide.aspx face shape]. One of the few things /fa/ is good at is choosing between different glasses given the right images. So post a picture of yourself wearing different glasses if you want any useful advice.

Quality is very important with sunglasses. When you put glasses on, your eyes open up more because the world is now dimmer. However, if your glasses do not offer proper UV protection, your eyes are open wide and letting in more harmful rays than normal. It is almost always better for your eyes to squint and deal with it than to wear cheap sunglasses and fool your eyes into thinking they are protected.

'''Notable Brands'''
*[http://rayban.com Ray-Ban]
*Oliver Peoples
*Tom Ford
*Persol
*Warby Parker
*Randolph Engineering
*American Optical

== What to Wear During What Season ==
''Above all else, remember to dress appropriately to the weather around you (e.g., don't wear shorts if it's cold).''

'''Spring'''
*Tops: t-shirts, shirts, polos, light-weight jackets
*Bottoms: any
*Footwear: any

'''Summer'''
*Tops: t-shirts, thin shirts, polos
*Bottoms: shorts, pants (linen and chino are great)
*Footwear: low-top sneakers, boat shoes, sandals, loafers

'''Autumn'''

*Tops: shirts, cardigans, jackets
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

'''Winter'''

*Tops: layer your outerwear over shirts or tees
*Bottoms: pants, jeans
*Footwear: sneakers, boots

File:Shirt2.jpg

2013-08-06T18:22:49Z

Niggeragua: